Chamonix Conditions

The Club produces a regular English translation of the Chamonix conditions report from La Chamoniarde to help climbers without an understanding of French to access up-to-date information on conditions in the valley. An archive of these reports can be seen below:

Report: 13 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 13 September 2024.

After autumn we get winter!

This morning, the ground was white down to 1,600m. Yesterday's snowfall of 20cm at the Aiguille du Midi and 40cm at the refuge du Goûter was caused by a strong northerly wind that has been blowing since yesterday (and is expected to continue until the beginning of next week). Beware of the risk of avalanches and precarious snow bridges.

^{Aiguille du Midi Web Cam, 13 September 2024}

Hold on for rock climbing in the Mont Blanc massif and the Aiguilles Rouges. With the current temperatures, climbing (in the sun) in the Arve valley, the Aravis or down south could be a good idea!

As far as mixed routes are concerned, it's still too early, even if these snowfalls will improve conditions on some of them (the Cosmiques arête, for example).

As far as snow routes are concerned, some are still possible if the weather conditions are favourable. As a reminder, the commitment at this time of year is greater (ski lifts and refuges closed, shorter days, cold, low numbers of visitors, etc.) and getting out into the high mountains requires a solid experience of the high mountains. Don't aim for weather windows that are too short or unpredictable.

Mont Blanc via the Goûter: The Goûter refuge closed early due to a technical problem (the winter room is now open). Fresh snow, a northerly wind forecast at 80/100km/h at 4,000m (the wind feels like ice up there): the climb looks serious.

The wintery blast is also slowing down hiking activity (which should improve as soon as the sun returns). For those of you who are keen on snowshoeing, I'm sorry, but you'll just have to wait a bit.

An overview of the status of refuges:

Massif du Mont Blanc

- l'Envers des Aiguilles closes on Monday 16/09
- The Argentière, Charpoua, Couvercle, Leschaux, Requin, Grands Mulets, Goûter, Durier and Plan Glacier huts are closed.

Aiguilles Rouges

- Pierre à Bérard closed (no winter room)

Remember to bring gas, water and food if you plan to go to an unguarded hut.

^{Index Web Cam, 13 September 2024}

As far as ski lifts are concerned, this is the last weekend for the Brévent ski area (closing on Sunday 15/09).

The Flégère ski area remains open (closing on 22/09), as do the Montenvers train, the Aiguille du Midi + Panoramique cable cars and the Mont Blanc tramway.

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 6 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 6 September 2024.

Our first taste of autumn in the high mountains and the first snow report!

The brief but intense storm on Thursday 5 September deposited 25/30cm of snow on the Aiguille du Midi (it was white and beautiful this morning!). As a result, conditions have improved a little on the arête. The normal route on the Tacul doesnt look very inviting. A large slab has released on Maudit. Some snow on the ledges on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi (see photo below). The traverse of the Vallée Blanche was retracked this morning. Be careful, this snow hides the dryness of some routes and the fragile snow bridges on approaches.

The rock is dry around Plan de l'Aiguille!

Goûter

"Winter is back up here, snow up to the Tête Rousse, and it's freezing. The grand couloir and all the way to the top is fine! Great conditions’.

Albert 1er

A little snow above 3,200m. The Arête de la Table is white but the snow will melt quickly. Good conditions on the route. On the other hand, the rimaye on the normal route is very technical and challenging (see photo below).

The Col Supérieur du Tour is dry and sandy.

Teams on the normal routes of Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche (a few crevasses opening up on the route).

Leschaux

You can climb on the rock routes behind the refuge but its all over for the Grandes Jorasses, which is plastered.

Some Early Autumn Logistical Information

Huts:

As a reminder, the Requin - Argentière - Charpoua refuges are now closed.
The Durier and Plan Glacier huts will close tomorrow evening, Saturday 7 September.
In the "moyenne montagne", the Pierre à Bérard hut has been closed for a week.

Ski lifts:

The Vallorcine cable car is closed. The Le Tour and Prarion lifts will close on Sunday evening, 8 September.
Tramway du Mont-Blanc: the autumn timetables have been put in place, but there are still special trains for mountaineers with reservations in the refuges (departures at 7.00am - 12.00pm - 3.00pm and returns at 8.12am - 1.12pm - 4.12pm).
Aiguille du Midi: autumn timetable with the first departure at 8.10am and the last descent at 4.30pm.

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 31 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 31 August 2024.

A brief update on mountain conditions!

^{Emosson, © Pierrot}

August is drawing to a close and it's time for some mountain huts to close for the season:

- The Argentière, Charpoua and Requin huts are now closed.

- Plan Glacier will close on 7 September.

The Plan Joran gondola closed on 31/08. The Mont Blanc tunnel closes on 2 September at 5pm for 3 months.

Activity in the high mountains and on snow routes has been much reduced in recent weeks, with the weather having a lot to do with it. It's time to climb compact rock, or go to the beach.

We've updated our news feed, so you can find the latest reports on conditions here.

We'd like to take this opportunity to thank all those who are involved, in any way, in providing us with information, thank you!

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 23 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 23 August 2024.

Albert 1er

No changes since the 16/08 update.

Argentière

No major changes here either, the season for snow routes is over. However, there are some great climbs on 5-star rock to be had!

Leschaux

The approach and climbing conditions remain good in all sectors. Petites and Grandes Jorasses are still being climbed. It's starting to get complicated to make water if you choose the bivouac option on the Cassin route. Also good conditions at the Aiguille de Leschaux and for the climbing routes around the refuge.

Talèfre basin

That's it for snow routes, even for Pointe Isabelle where a large rimaye blocks access.

Activity is now concentrated on the Moine, Nonne and Evêque.

The rimaye on the Contamine on the Moine has opened up. You have to climb down inside before getting back on the rock.

Charpoua

The Dru is no longer accessible by the glacier. The rest of the routes are fine. The Contamine on the Evêque rimaye has opened up but is still passable. The condition of the fixed ropes has deteriorated.

The refuge is due to close on 1 September, but it remains to be seen whether this date will be brought forward depending on the weather conditions. Don't forget to call the refuge!

Envers des Aiguilles

Grépon - Mer de Glace: ok on the Envers Des Aiguilles side. However, it is no longer possible to avoid the ice on the Nantillons glacier, so abseiling on abalakovs is necessary in the upper part.

The other sectors are all accessible!

^{Nantillons Glacier on 22 August}

Requin

Access to the refuge is still via the left bank initially. At the junction of the Leschaux glacier and the Tacul, go into the middle and then branch off perpendicularly opposite the ladders. Congo Star and Renaudie are still passable. For the latter, you'll need to take the 15 abseils.

The refuge is closing this Sunday (25/08). Then 10 euros/night for the winter room.

Punta Helbronner

End of summer activity in the sector!

Still a few teams on the Rochefort - Grandes Jorasses traverse. The descent via the normal route is still relatively easy. Two passages require a little attention: under the Whymper rocks to get a foothold on the glacier and then on the Planpincieux glacier under the Reposoir rock (crevasses). A report on the route from 22/08 can be found here.

The Rochefort arête is dry (a little ice, unstable rock) which makes it more technical (you have to watch where you put your feet) than at the beginning of the season when conditions are optimal. We'd like to take this opportunity to remind you that the ratings for a route refer to optimum conditions!

Dent du Géant still crowded: at the risk of repeating ourselves, the access to the Salle à Manger is dry (which is not ideal) and you absolutely must stay on the right route.

The crossing of the Aiguilles d'Entrêves is crowded, beware of the crevasses on the approach before the Col d'Entrêves. For the Marbrées, always opt for the full traverse.

No news from the Arête du Diable.

There's climbing on the satellites. The rimayes are still going well (Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul, etc.)

The traverse of the Vallée Blanche is still going well. Don't hesitate to take a low track and retrace your steps as the snow bridges are changing at the end of the season.

Cosmiques

Mixed opinions on the 3 Monts: many dubious bridges in the upper part of the Tacul for some, no proplem for others.

As the rimaye on Maudit has grown, it seems that the fixed rope is getting a bit short. There are currently 2 tracks in the lower section: one using the fixed rope and a second pulling right into the steep seracs.

The upper part is still snow.

The traverse to Pointe Lachenal looks like it is still practicable, although you will have to negotiate the rimaye and a section of ice to reach the first Pointe.

^{Point Lachenal on 23 August}

Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter

The conditions on this route are typical of the end of the season.

The couloir is very dry and you need to cross it at the right time (as a reminder, the best time according to scientific studies is between 6am and 11am, which doesn't mean there aren't rockfalls).

The north-facing section of the Bosses Arête is out of the question. You have to go via the Mauvaise Arête (underlying ice, good steps).

Mont Blanc via the Royal Traverse

Generally good conditions on this traverse: blue ice on the Col des Dômes, good track to the Bionnassay making progress easier, a few crevasses visible at the Piton des Italiens. Be careful if you descend via the Goûter couloir - timing is everything!

Monzino

Aiguille Croux: All good!

The Punta Innominata can be done there and back via the arête (rather than the descent via the Glacier du Brouillard).

That's it for the Ratti-Vitali.

Access to the Eccles is becoming increasingly complicated = not many people.

The Brouillard integrale can still be done by bivouacking at the Col Emile Rey to start the tricky pitches when its cool.

Miage

The Dômes out-and-back route is still passable, but for the traverse there's ice at the Col de la Bérangère. A report on our route notebook for the traverse on 20/08 can be found here.

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 16 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 16 August 2024.

Gosh it's already the middle of August! While we wait for cooler temperatures to return, it's the end of the line for technical mixed routes....Solid rock climbing is good too :)

Glacier du Tour

Petite Fourche, Tête Blanche and Aiguille du Tour are still being climbed. The rimaye of the latter is opening up but is easy to cross. The col Supérieur du Tour is also starting to dry out. That's it for the Aiguille du Chardonnet. The "roture" (gap between snow and rock) below the abseil descent is very difficult to cross.

Argentière

All the snow routes are finished! All the rock routes can be done without any problems. The Glacier du Milieu has become very tricky and you have to be careful with falling rocks. For the descent of the Jardin arête, it's better to take ‘La part des anges’ (60m technical abseil). This route is no longer recommended. Access to the refuge is via the ladders.

Talèfre

The Aiguille du Moine (including the normal route) remains in good condition. The E face is more complicated - Contamine-Labrunie and Aureille-Feutren routes - because of the rimayes. The Nonne traverse is still climbed, even though the rimaye is opening up more and more. The conditions change every day! Pointe Isabelle is still in good condition, but has been climbed very little. It's over for the big technical routes (Verte, Droites, Courtes), and even dangerous! (very open rimaye, rock falls etc...)

Leschaux

Access for hikers is very good. The rock routes behind the refuge are also fine. The Cassin route is still in good condition. Come up here, the guardian is waiting for you!

Charpoua

The glacier on the way to the Drus is still crossable (as high up as possible). Some rockfall on the Drus traverse. That's it for the W face. There are still teams on Contamine on the Evêque, which looks to be in condition. Ditto for Sale Athée, which still has snow in the access couloir.

Requin

Access to the refuge is from the left bank - 2 crevasses to cross - The Jonction to Torino has deteriorated badly! Access to the Dent du Requin is very good: Chapeau à Cornes arête complicated, lots of teams on the Renaudie (for the record, you can no longer branch off to the other side of the glacier, you have to take the 15 abseils). Lots of people on Congo Star.

Envers des Aiguilles

The Grépon/République rimaye is still OK (by the rocks on the right) as is the Bec d'Oiseau rimaye. The descent via Les Nantillons is still passable, it's opening up and there are a few icy sections, but they are easy to get round. Otherwise nothing to report. Lots of good climbing up here.

Helbronner

The access is dry but you can still climb the Dent du Géant. For the Marbrées and Entrèves, it's best to opt for full traverses, because of the rimayes. The rimayes on the Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul and Adolphe Rey are still fine. The arêtes du Diable are much less climbed, as it's very dry, especially in the couloir.

Cosmiques

The Cosmiques arête is very dry! So is the arête Laurence, but it's still being climbed. Little activity on the Pointe Lachenal due to the dry conditions. The 3 Monts are still being climbed, there's still a fixed rope to get over the 1st rimaye on Maudit, but you have to go around the 2nd, as the bridge is now very fragile.

Gonella

The Dôme glacier has deteriorated considerably in recent days. The glacier is very open and the snow bridges are fragile. There are frequent rockfalls below the Aiguilles Grises. In view of the conditions, the hut is closed, and the guardian will go back up when it's cooler.

Monzino

Conditions on the Brouillard glacier are no longer good: rock falls, crevasses, dry arête! On the other hand, all the rock routes around the refuge are practicable except for the Pilier Rouge because of the access.

Gouter

Overall conditions are still good. Following the rain, rockfalls resumed in the afternoons in the Grand Couloir, lets hope it will snow next time. Higher up, things are starting to open up, so the classic route is best for the 1st "bosse", then contour round to reach the Tournette.

Conscrits

The Dômes de Miage from the Conscrits are in pretty good condition for the season (see photo above) and the ‘belle arête’ is well covered in snow.

This is the end for the traverse, with quite a bit of ice at the Col de la Bérangère except for a small strip of snow that may not survive the next rainfall - be sure to know how to crampon - It's all over for the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête.

Durier sector

The Bionnassay arête is being climbed every day and is still snow (see photos above).

The Dômes de Miage are dry between the Col des Dômes and Durier, so beware of rock fall.

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 9 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 9 August 2024.

Over the last 2 weeks, we've seen a marked change in conditions in the high mountains, which is hardly surprising for August 9 in the 21st century. The opportunities for snow routes are shrinking, giving way to rock climbing. The zero isotherm for the next few days is around 5,000m, which isn't great for refreezing conditions.

Its much better to go climbing on solid rock, which avoids worrying about refreezing and permafrost melt.

We continue to post daily on our news feed, so be sure to check it out here.

Le Tour

It's now looking complicated to get back onto the glacier from the "new" Chardonnet abseil line. See news feed.

Argentière sector

A detailed report on the Jardin arête in our route notebook.

Talèfre

Around the Couvercle hut, activity is now concentrated on the Aiguille du Moine, where the rimaye is OK to cross. The high isotherm of recent weeks seems to have put an end to snow routes, with the exception of Pointe Isabelle which, according to Pinou the guardian, is still in good condition. Less activity also on the Moine ridge.

Leschaux

In the words of the hut guardian: "We've got superb conditions, the glaciers are great for accessing all the routes around the hut.

Grandes Jorasses: Walker spur, (Cassin) ✅

Plenty of ice in the red chimney: 2 axes and ice screws recommended.
Aiguille de Leschaux ✅
- Petites Jorasses ✅

- climbing routes above the refuge ✅
- Balcony path ✅
no more névés - refuge ✅✅✅

Photos available on the refuge's Facebook page.

Charpoua

There's no snow on the American direct to be able to make water. See our news feed for more details on the artificial pitch. Several rock falls have been observed in recent weeks on the west face. A rock fall this morning (09/08), next to the normal route on the Petit Dru.

From the refuge, the glacier is still ok to reach the foot of the Contamine and for the Drus traverse. Let's see how things develop. There is still some snow to access Sale Athée, so crampons are still needed.

Envers des Aiguilles

There's climbing everywhere. Opinions differ on the crossing of the rimaye Grépon Mer de Glace / voie normale de la République: some people thought it was fine, others not so much. On the other hand, conditions on the Nantillons glacier have deteriorated. Ice in some places, falling rocks in others. Efficiency and timing are vital.

Helbronner

Lots of people on the Grand Capucin and its satellites. We still advise against climbing the Clocher and the Trident, as there are several signs of instability. Beware of the rimayes/rotures to gain a foothold on the rock. The Grand Cap rimaye is difficult to climb and there is a risk of falling rocks. For the left-hand routes, it is best to access via the "Francesco" terrace.

There are also many teams on the Grandes Jorasses traverse, in both directions! Watch out for overcrowding on these routes.

Cosmiques / Les 3 Monts

A fixed rope has been installed to cross the lower rimaye of Mont Maudit. The ice is starting to appear on the mur de la Cote.

The Cosmiques Arête is now (too?) dry.

Gouter

The couloir is now dry, with few rockfalls so far. Between the Gouter refuge and the summit, it's still all snow.

Durier

Still good conditions on the Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc traverse. No ice on the Miage and the end of the ridge is mainly dry. Bionnassay, also in good conditions, narrow as usual but a good track makes it a bit easier.

South face of Mont Blanc

Almost no snow on the S ridge of the Noire.

There hasn't been much recent information between the Grand Pilier d'Angle and the Brouillard ridge. The sun and the temperatures must have done their job there too.

Rockfalls were observed near the Innominata, and access to the Eccles seems to have deteriorated.

On the hiking front, the fun continues, with the final points to watch out for being the Col de la Glière, Mont Buet and Col de Salenton, where the snow persists.

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 13 September 2024

Report: 6 September 2024

Report: 31 August 2024

Report: 23 August 2024

Report: 16 August 2024

Report: 9 August 2024

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