Report 12th November 2017

A chain of weather fronts is gradually building up snow levels at altitude.
There are 30cms of snow at 2000m and more above this.  

This snow was accompanied by strong N to NE winds, causing drifting and windslab above 2000m.  The avalanche risk is 3/5.  At mid mountain the snow cover in insufficient for ski touring but snow shoes could be useful above 2000/2200m.

Concerning the lifts, only the Montenvers train is running.  Check the timetable first.

Winter is slowly coming; take care, be patient.  

Report 26 October 2017

 Since the bad weather last weekend, (wind at altitude with snow almost down to the valley,) the Office de Haute Montagne has not received any information about recent conditions.   The quantity of fresh snow and the extent of drifting during the stormy weather remains largely unknown.  On the 26^th October there were again strong N/NW winds. 

The rocks are still plastered with snow, except for those in the Aiguilles Rouge exposed to the sun.  (Only the Flégère lift is running on this side of the valley at the moment.)

The warm weather these last two days has been ideal for climbing on the valley crags   N.B.there has been a rockfall at the Spa sector at the Fayet : an area of rock has come away near a bolt protected crack used for dry tooling.

Concerning the hiking trails, the snow has melted away up to about 2000m but above this there is still some left, especially on the north facing slopes, (hard snow).  Be aware, as part of the preparation for the winter season, at mid altitudes many of the signposts are being removed, as well as some of the footbridges. 

Report 17th October 2017

The weather is due to deteriorate for the weekend and will restrict activity at altitude.  Nonetheless, here is the latest reported information:

The 3 Monts route was done at the end of last week, with some steep sections and apparently bare ice in places.  The normal (Gouter) route up Mont Blanc was also being climbed

Near the Torino hut (still open), the conditions remain generally good for the Dent du Geant, the Rochefort Ridge, (good track and firm snow,) the Entrèves and the Marbrées.
Activity also on the Tour Ronde normal route, (stonefall reported,) and the N face, (no further info.)
Some parties climbed the Küffner Ridge, using the direct start as there is a rockfall zone near the Col de la Fourche.  The Lafaille and Valéria gullies would appear to be climbable, but still thin and the bergshrunds could be problematical.

Near the Aiguille du Midi, the S face and the Cosmiques Spur are in condition.  Some activity on the Midi-Plan, with most parties turning back before the abseils at the Rognon, in order not to miss the last lift back down. Some parties on Fil à Plomb but the other mixed routes on the N face of the Midi are not in good condition.

A party on the Desmaison route, Grandes Jorasses; the route being very difficult due to alternating dry (rock)/ice and inconsistent snow.  A party topped out on the Shroud.  The descent was awkward but passable.  The Colton-McIntyre looks to have very little ice.  

Despite the sections of bare ice and crevasses, the Dômes de Miage ridge was traversed last weekend.  The Tré la Tête glacier is heavily crevassed.

No particular problems for hikers, other than some paths being closed “for work”.

Report 12 October 2017

Latest update for this weekend:

The recent good weather has favoured activity in the high mountains but, as reported frequently, the conditions are very dry for the season.  Most of the gullies and mixed routes are not yet in condition; more snow is needed!

The Torino is the only high altitude hut still open.  At mid altitudes, only the

Plan de l'Aiguille and the Loriaz huts are open.

Tour Glacier sector: the normal routes on Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and the Aiguille du Tour are being done.  (N.B. the Col Supérieur du Tour is still awkward to cross.) No information about the Chardonnet.

Argentière sector: Good conditions reported for the Bettembourg-Thivierge gully, no information for the other routes in this sector.  

Cosmiques/Torino sector: Aiguilles Marbrées and Entrèves and the Dent du Géant remain popular.  Parties turned back on the Rochefort Ridge, (too much snow.)  The Kuffner Ridge is being done again, in OK conditions (see cahier de course).
Rock routes are being climbed on the Aiguille du Midi S face, Pointes Lachenal and the Tacul satelittes.
The Fil à Plomb was done recently.  It is necessary to bypass the bergshrund using the rocks to the left; afterwards the conditions are more or less OK.
No information about the 3 Monts traverse, but the normal route on the Tacul is being done regularly.

The Gouter route on Mont Blanc remains popular. It is still forbidden to walk along by the Tramway du Mont Blanc rail track, only the Rognes or the Chalets de l'Are paths are allowed.  

The Tricot ridge and the traverse of the Bionnassay are also being done, conditions are more technical than usual, with the Bionnassay ridge being very thin. There are some ice sections on the north side and powder snow on the Italian side.  

A party turned back on the Dômes de Miage traverse due to awkward conditions, (the ridge very narrow, crevasses etc.) 

Many hikers are enjoying the valley paths during these beautiful autumnal days.  Do not forget to check for closed paths ( chemins fermés pour travaux ) before setting out. Some of the signposts are being removed prior to the winter; take a map!

The Curalla Via Ferrata at Plateau d'Assy will close on 13th November and the cables on the Dérochoir will be removed on the same date.  The Tricot footbridge will be taken down for the winter between 16 and 20^th October.

Report 6th October 2017

All the high mountain huts are now closed, with the exceptions of the Cosmiques, (closes 7/10) and the Torino, (closes 2/11).  All the lifts are also closed except for the Aig du Midi and Skyway which will remain open until the beginning of November.

At lower altitudes, only the Loriaz and Plan de l’Aiguille are still open.

Despite the mixed weather in September and the cool, windy weather at the start of October, the mixed routes and the gullies are still not in condition.  

Some routes, such as the Contamine-Grisolle or the Chéré on the Triangle du Tacul, remain feasible.
The normal route on the Tacul and the Midi Plan traverse, (as far as the Rognon,) have been done recently in OK conditions.

The 3 Monts traverse has not been done now for a fortnight.  Following the recent passages of bad weather, the rock routes often have ice in the cracks and snow on the ledges.

A large part of the Tournier Spur on the Aiguille du Midi N face has collapsed leaving the area unstable.

No recent news from the Torino sector, though the traverses of the Marbrées and Entrèves remain feasible. Take care on the glaciers, as the snow bridges are still weak.

In the Mer de Glace sector, (Montenvers train closed,) some of the in-situ material at the Egralets and the Couvercle-Leschaux traverse has been dismantled for the winter. The way is still possible but demands good technical ability. A party has climbed the Shroud, though in delicate conditions. The Colton McIntyre would appear to be out of condition for the moment.

The Aiguille de Bionnassay was climbed at the beginning of October, there and back from the Durier, in generally good conditions

In the Albert 1^er sector, the routes on the Chardonnet have not come into condition yet.  In general, it has been far too dry this year and patience is needed before the routes will be feasible again.   

The normal route up Mont Blanc by the Goûter remains popular, (huts and lifts closed,) despite unfavourable conditions for the Aiguille de Gouter. One needs to be well experienced and have the right material. 

In the mid mountain, Autumn is the time for a lot of maintenance work and many of the paths are closed.  Check the arrêtés en cours  site before venturing out.

Autumn is also a time when it is difficult to gather good information, (huts and lifts closed, not much activity etc,) so the Chamoniarde relies on your feedback to create the updates.  Please do not hesitate to write up your outings in the cahier de courses  or give them a phone call. Whether the conditions were good or bad, the information is always useful and most welcome.