News has reached us of the death of Geoff Templeman, a member since 1980 and an Assistant Editor of the Alpine Journal for many years.
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News has reached us of the death of our member Evelio Echevarria. He helped out a lot with the Alpine Journal and was the author of The Andes, The Complete History of Mountaineering in High South America. He had been a member for 60 years.
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Cathy O’Dowd, Andy Perkins and Phil Wickens
For those who think it’s more fun to descend your mountain on skis we have an evening of ski mountaineering in remote locations.
Cathy O’Dowd kicks off the evening with peaks in the Canadian Yukon. Then Andy Perkins showcases first ski descents in a little known fjord on the West Coast of Greenland. Finally, Phil Wickens shows us how to get to Antarctica and what to do there.
As usual the evening will conclude with a Q&A
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 23/10/2020
Although snow remains above 2100m, this coming weekend should allow one to enjoy the beautiful autumnal colors at mid altitudes.
In the high mountains, the recent snowfall accompanied by strong winds makes route choice more difficult.
For hikers, not much has changed since our last update and even if the snow has receded a bit, progression can still be tricky without the right equipment and experience for snowy terrain.
You will find some recommended hikes on the Chamoniarde site.
In the high mountains, the wind has been blowing hard these last few days and it is difficult to say how this will have affected conditions.
The gully season has only just started and most of them are still very dry, so expect to use rock protection and have some technical ability in reserve.
Some winter huts, for example the Albert 1er, can be particularly busy, especially on weekends.
Routes like Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche were done this week; snowshoes were not needed on 19th Oct but maybe so for this weekend.
As you will have understood, with all the disruptions and reduced activity this autumn, gathering information is far from easy. We are therefore counting on you to send your feedback to Chamoniarde
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 15/10/2020
Not much has changed since the last update.
The weather remains wintery in the Chamonix valley for the start of the All Saints half term, (17th Oct to 2nd Nov in France),
A much hoped for improvement in the weather is needed before mountain activity can resume. There should be a weather window in the few days’ time.
The Aiguille du Midi cable car, the Montenvers train, (with the ice cave lift,) and the Flégère bubbles will be open during the holiday period. See :(https://www.montblancnaturalresort.com/en/).
There has been little information coming in recently about the high mountain. There has been a lot of snow, and if nothing else, making the glaciers “happy” :) ! To move about, skis or snowshoes are essential. Take care with the snow bridges which might not be consolidated yet. Also be aware of avalanche risk, even if Météo France is not yet issuing bulletins on BERA. Remember that all the huts are closed, (winter rooms accessible.)
As far as the mixed routes are concerned, what little information is available, (mainly from looking,) indicates conditions remain dry. The new snow is very cold and has covered the ice and rocks without consolidating yet. That said, some routes will be “climbable”. Looking forward to your reports !
Some classic routes could be feasible : Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Cosmiques Ridge, Pointes Lachenal and Marbrées traverses etc. More stability is needed before committing to longer routes like Mont Blanc by the Goûter or the Dômes de Miage.
The hiking trails can be challenging. They are often greasy and slippery, with care needed in places. There is quite a lot of snow above 2000m, (depending on the aspect) However, it is still too early to get out the snowshoes! As a reminder, some of the signposting has been removed for the winter. The early arrival of the snow has caused some trees to fall onto certain paths, (especially those with leaves).
As stated in the previous report, some alpine paths remain impractical, (Nid d'Aigle, Jonction, Lake Cornu, Albert 1er, Buet etc,) as are the multi day treks (Tour des Aiguilles Rouge, TMB) unless one is in expedition mode, :) .
Due to the snow, certain classic hikes require one to be well equipped, (poles, good boots, maybe gaiters.) In the absence of footprints, the path is not always visible and it is easy to go wrong.
Possible objectives are: the Aiguillette des Houches, Prarion via Charousse and the Col de la Forclaz, Bellachat hut, the Sentier des Pharaons above the Cerro chalet, Plan de l'Aiguille via Grand Bois. The Grand Balcon Nord (completed covered in snow and only suitable for experienced hikers,) Alpage de Blaitière, Montenvers via Caillet or Les Mottets (possibility to continue, there and back, to the Signal Forbes), Planpraz, there and back, via the Plan des Chablettes and the Combe du Brévent, Grand Balcon Sud, there and back, from Flégère, Chéserys lakes (possibility to continue to Lac Blanc in the snow,) from Flégère or the Col des Montets, Aiguillette des Posettes from Trè le Champs (snow higher up), Bérard Valley, Loriaz chalets.
The via ferrata des Evettes should be feasible, with the Flégère lift open. Likewise, for the Curalla VF at Plateau d'Assy (due to be closed from 02/11).
Charles Sherwood, Ian Parnell and Calvin Torrans
Charles Sherwood talks about his new book on finding the finest climb on each continent, then Ian Parnell talks about the UK’s Hard Rock routes as detailed in the newly released book of that name, and Calvin Torrans takes us to Ireland to give us an overview of some of the best climbing on the Emerald Isle.
We will finish with a Q&A
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 07/10/2020
Some brief information for this autumnal start to October.
Since the last update, already some time ago, winter has established itself early at altitude. The various weather fronts have deposited snow, sometimes below 2000m. There have even been snowflakes down to the valley floor. All the mountain huts are now closed, (including the Plan d’Aiguille, Cosmiques, Torino which normally would still be open.) Weather permitting, the Aiguille du Midi lift will stay open until 1st November (re-opening foreseen for 12/12). Likewise, for the Skyway, (closes 02/11 reopens 25/11). The Montenvers train also remains open this Autumn, (N.B. the ice cave and cable car are shut until the half term holidays.) The Flégère will also be open at half term,(17/10 to 1/11).
The high mountain activity is virtually zero given the amount of snow and lack of weather windows. The rocks appear to be out of condition and there is no information for the mixed routes. One needs to wait until the weather improves . The routes from the Aig du Midi could be feasible during the weather window foreseen in the next few days, (perhaps strong winds at altitude.) Snowshoes could be useful. Hiking is limited due the early arrival of winter at altitude. For the same reason, some of the signposts are in the process of being removed; take a map!
In general, hiking is best below 2000m, for example: Chalets de Chailloux, Prarion via Charousse and the Col de la Forclaz, Chalet du Cerro, Alpage de Blaitière, Montenvers, Buvette du Chapeau, Chalet de la Floria, Grand Balcon Sud, Pierre à Bérard hut, Loriaz hut, the Cascades du Dards and Bérard.
Experienced hikers (with walking poles and good footwear) could venture higher, though the paths might not always visible; for example : Aiguillette des Houches, Grand Balcon Nord, Aiguillette des Posettes, Chéserys Lakes. The more alpine trails are not recommended, for example : Nid Aigle, Jonction, Cornu lake, Albert 1er and Buet.
MOUNT EVEREST FOUNDATION LECTURE
3 NOVEMBER 18:00 – 19:30
ONLINE - FREE
ANNAPURNA 1970
British Annapurna South Face Expedition 1970
The 1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition was the first to climb a difficult face route on an 8000m peak, a major Himalayan achievement. On 27 May, Don Whillans & Dougal Haston reached the summit of Annapurna I (26,545ft, 8,091 m). Chris Bonington led the expedition that approached from the Annapurna Sanctuary. The team used pioneering rock and ice climbing techniques to fix ropes up the steep South Face.
It's been forty-five years since Dougal Haston and Doug Scott stood as the first Brits on the summit of Everest, and the first ever team by the south-west face. To celebrate this incredible record-breaking achievement, we are pleased to announce a very special screening of Everest the Hard Way, followed by an exclusive Q&A with some of the original members of the team.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS
The season is coming to an end and autumnal weather is expected next week.
Most of the ski lifts and mountain huts are either closed or soon will be. For more details, consult the relevant pages on the Chamoniarde site.
Regarding hiking, conditions are excellent and should remain so if the weather is favourable.
In the high mountains, the season is finished and even if the snowfall last week had temporarily improved the conditions of some routes, the hot weather since has reversed most of this, with rockfalls becoming frequent again.
For now, conditions in the Tour sector are OK, (the hut closes on Sunday 20th September.)
All the huts in the Mer de Glace sector are now closed but climbing here should still be possible on pleasant autumnal days.
In the Aiguille du Midi sector, the Pointes Lachenal traverse and the Cosmiques ridge are still being done despite the dry conditions. There have been some parties also on the Contamine-Grisolle (exit at the top of the Triangle then return by the shoulder) , the Chéré Gully and on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi.
There has been no recent information about the Midi-Plan traverse.
The Trois Monts is still being done but the route remains more technical than usual, despite the presence of a fixed rope at the Mont Maudit Col.
Crossing the Valley Blanche is reported to be complicated in places. However, interest in this route will fade with the closing of the Panoramic lift this weekend.
A track is visible on the Plateau route above the Grand Mulets. No further information is available.
Normal route of Mont Blanc: The Bellevue cable car closes on Sunday 20th and the Mont Blanc tramway the following weekend. The Nid d'Aigle, Tête Rousse and Goûter huts remain open, (closing dates were given in the last update). There has been an increased amount of stonefall in the Grand Couloir and several parties have chosen to turn back in recent days. Also, the cable was severed by a huge, night-time rockfall.
In the Conscripts sector, the conditions are now as dry as they were before the last snowfall. The Glacier de Tré-la-Tête is dry and below the Col des Dômes it is necessary to weave between treacherous crevasses. There is ice, “canolles” (unstable ice formations) and a risk of stone fall on the slope between the Dômes and the Bérangère. Therefore, to do the Domes de Miage it is preferable to go there and back from the Col des Dômes.
It is over for Mont Tondu, except from the south via the Valley des Glaciers.
On the Italian side, there has been reports of parties on the SE ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and of rock climbing on the Aiguille Croux.
There has been regular activity around the Torino hut (Marbrées, Entrèves, Tacul satellites, Dent du Géant, Rochefort ridge ...) Care is still required on the approach to the “Salle a Manger” due to the unstable terrain.
As for climbing and hiking in the Aiguilles Rouges, all the lifts will be closed after this weekend.
The conditions described in this update will certainly change in the coming days.
As the huts are now closed, it will be more difficult for Chamoniarde to obtain information, so do not hesitate to send in your feedback.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 10/09/2020
The mountains are benefiting from an Indian summer, with cool nights and warm days.
Conditions are generally good, given that it is the end of the season
Activity continues in the Tour sector. (The lifts close on Sunday 13th, but the hut remains open until the 21st.) The normal routes on the Aig du Tour, (most parties choose to go up by the Col Supérieur du Tour, which remains fairly dry, and descend by Col du Tour,) the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche are been done regularly
The Table Ridge remains feasible, though the start is not obvious. On 08/09 the Migot Spur was climbed, (average conditions with ice and rocks showing through inconsistent snow,) with a descent by the Forbes Ridge, (good conditions: dry on the crest and snow on the N side passages). As stated in a previous report, the classic descent is not feasible due to a large bergschrund beneath the Adams Reilly Col.
The Argentière and Charpoua huts, together with the Argentière lifts are closed for the season. The traverse of the Drus is no longer feasible. The glacier is impassable and recently there has been a large rockfall.
There is still some activity from the Couvercle (winter room), notably on the S Ridge, S Ridge integral and the normal route on the Moine. The bergschrund for the Contamine is currently impassable. The start is now by a F6b/c crack on the right; foresee extra gear.
A party turned back at the large crevasse on the Courtes glacier while attempting the Pointe Isabelle. Crystal hunting seems to be the main activity in the rest of the sector. A lot of rockfalls have been noted, especially near the normal route on the Droites.
Rock climbing is still happening near the Leschaux, (the hut shuts on the 13th,) on the Aiguille de Pierre à Joseph routes, (it is over for the Aiguille de Leschaux, the Petites Jorasses remains possible but with a risk of being wet in places.) and in the Envers des Aiguilles sector (the hut closes on the 15th ) The Grépon-Republique bergschrund is reported to be "easy but scary”.
The Plan de l'Aiguille sector is also dry. For example, Aiguille de l'M (NE Ridge and normal route), Petits Charmoz traverse, Pilier Rouge de Blaitière, Lames Fontaine, Papillons Arete, normal route / SW ridge on the Peigne are being climbed.
The traverse of the Chamonix Aiguilles was done on 08/09, descent by paraglider. There has been o recent information concerning the Nantillons glacier, (should be feasible), the Cordier Pillar, the Charmoz-Grépon (looks to have snow)) or the Frendo, (the crest looks white but this maybe just hiding problems)
In the Aiguille du Midi sector (N.B. the Panoramique is open weekends in September) the S faces are being climbed, e.g. Aiguille du Midi and Pointes Lachenal). The Cosmiques Ridge and the Pointes Lachenal traverse are also being done.
The Midi-Plan, there and back, was done in OK conditions.
There have been some parties on the Triangle du Tacul. The Contamine-Grisolle was reported to be in good condition, the Chéré gully is still fairly dry.
The normal route on the Tacul remains technically difficult. Some parties have managed the Trois Monts route. The Maudit is overcome now by the serac, (very steep for 4-5m, 2 axes and ice screws needed.)
There are good conditions for the Gouter route, if the time of day is respected, Crampons are only needed from the Gouter hut onwards.
The huts in this area stay open as follows, (dependent on the state of the sanitation and the weather):
- Nid d'Aigle : closes to the public on 27th September,(when the TMB closes.)
- Tête Rousse : closes to the public on Monday 12th October at 8am. (Capacity reduced to 36 places from 1st October.)
- The “camp de base” (near Tete Rousse) closes on Sunday 26th September at 8am.
- Goûter : closes to the public on Tuesday 13th October at 8am. .
The Dômes de Miage traverse is still being done (the Conscrits hut closes on 19/09). However, the ice is never far away above the Col de la Bérangère and the snow bridges on the Trè la Tête glacier remain treacherous.
The traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay is in good condition and is being done regularly, (Durier hut closed.)
The Monzino hut remains open for another week. There are quite a few hikers traversing to the Col Chasseur and climbers on the Aiguille Croux. Two parties did the Innominata Ridge on 09/09, (no further information, especially about the access to the Eccles.)
The classics in the Helbronner sector are still being climbed with the traverses of the Aiguilles d'Entrêves and the Marbrées being very popular.
The Dent du Géant and the Rochefort Ridge (some sections of ice) are being done daily in good conditions. The access to the Salle à Manger can be problematical if one leaves the main track.
Some parties on the SE ridge integral of the Tour Ronde and on the Aiguilles du Diable traverse, (the snow at the end of August improved conditions in the access gully and the rock is dry on the ridge.)
The Tacul satellites are being climbed. The bergschrund for the Pyramide du Tacul is a bit awkward, (black ice and many crevasses.)
The Tronchey Ridge (Grandes Jorasses) was done on 09/09. No further information neither for this nor for the descent by the normal route, which must have been awkward.
The Boccalatte hut is shut. The winter room is open for emergencies only and is not suitable for overnighting, (bad sanitation).
This report is based on information received following the resumption of activity in the high mountain.
After the storms there was a period of cold weather, but the temperatures have risen significantly today. The new snow has on the whole improved conditions but remember the season is ending. Vigilance is needed on the glaciers; the new snow can conceal the weak snow bridges and some crevasses. The rock routes exposed to the sun are climbable again.
Aiguille du Midi Sector
There has been climbing on the S face of the Aig du Midi. There is some snow on the ledges, but the rock is mainly dry. Conditions have improved, for the time being, on the Cosmiques Arete and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal (the 3 Pointes), both of which are retracked. On the Tacul, a party turned back yesterday due to knee deep snow after the 1st bergschrund. A party today crossed the 1st bergschrund in the middle and went up the lefthand side, (looking upwards.)
A party turned back at the second pitch on the Chéré Gully, (a lot of snow on top of the ice): A second party attempted the Tacul, crossing the bergschrund in the middle and going left up under the Triangle. (No further information yet.)
The traverse of the Valley Blanche was re-tracked yesterday.
Torino Sector
The Marbrées and Entrèves traverses are being done again, as has the Rochefort Ridge. Likewise, there is climbing on the Dent du Géant. (Take care on the unstable terrain at the level of the Salle à Manger and above the bergschrund.)
Envers des Aiguilles Sector
The rock has dried well, and climbing is possible everywhere in this sector. This morning there was a party on the Mer de Glace face of the Grepon. The bergshrund goes once more on the right, then traverse to the left. There is some snow on the ledges, but this is not a problem for the climb. No information for the descent of the Nantillons glacier.
Conscrits Sector
The Tondu was re-tracked two days ago, the conditions being easier due to the new snow.
The Dômes de Miage traverse was done this morning in good conditions, (no ice for the moment!)
Chamonix Aiguilles
The ledges of the Pilier Rouge de Blaitière look to still have some snow, though a lot disappeared today.
Snow remains on the ledges on the Peigne normal route. No further information for this sector, which is taking time to dry in some areas.
Mid Mountain
The hiking conditions were not affected by the recent snowfall and remain excellent.
Please note that the Remuaz path between Col des Montets and the cairn at Tête aux Vents will be closed from 7 to 11 September.
We are saddened by the news that Alan Harris passed away in his 100th year on Friday 17th July.
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A taste of winter in the mountains at the end of August !!!
There is quite a lot of snow at high altitude: the rocks are well plastered, beware of the risk of avalanches and snow sluffs on some routes! Be careful also at the snow bridges on glaciers ...
There is snow down to 2300m but it is unlikely to affect the hiking trails for long.
Some feedback from the hut wardens:
- Cosmiques: 50 cm of cold and very windblown snow
- 30/40 cm at the Gouter, also windblown
- Torino: 20 cm, (no snow at the Monzino)
- Envers de Aiguilles: 20 cm
-Couvercle: 20 cm
- Albert 1er: 20 cm
- Conscrits: also, 20 cm
- Col de Balme: 8 cm
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 24/08/20
Some selected information.
As the season advances the conditions continue to evolve. Caution is still needed with snow bridges and in potentially unstable areas.
The Dômes de Miage traverse is still being done, starting from the Bérangère and returning by the Trè la Tète glacier, (a bit of ice below the east summit and some open crevasses on the glacier, as one would expect at the end of the season.)
There has been a large landslip above the Miage glacier which has cut across the path to the Durier hut from Plan Glacier. This area still looks unstable, but not confirmed. It is advised to approach the Durier hut from the Dômes de Miage. The Aiguille de Bionnassay remains in good condition.
The Gouter route up Mont Blanc is back to “normal”, with the stonefall being less intense.
The Gonella hut has been shut since 18/06, no further information.
The is some recent information concerning the Trois Monts route on the Cosmiques hut’s Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/refugedescosmiques/posts/3090977520950974
Since this Monday it is no longer possible to cross the Tacul bergschrund on the left, (looking up) . Therefore, you are advised to go to the right, but it is your call!
The bergshrunds for the rock routes in this sector have not worsened.
On 22/08 another landslip was reported on the approach to the Salle à Manger (access to the Dent du Géant and Rochefort Arete). The Marbrés and Aiguilles d'Entrèves traverses are still being done.
A few parties are still doing the Jorasses traverse. Not much has changed on the normal route, (still at the limit)
See the Chamoniarde route book for the latest information on the Nantillons glacier. (https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/cahier-de-courses). The Charmoz-Grepon bergschrund is still passable but the glacier approach is very exposed to stonefall
No recent information for the République/Grepon Mer de Glace bergschrund, which is very tricky since the collapse of the “tunnel”, Otherwise, no changes, it goes !
Already there is snow on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses but there are still some parties doing the Cassin, (Walker Spur). The rock routes in this sector are in good condition; no problems with the glacier approach to the Petites Jorasses.
The Charpoua hut shuts this Thursday, still some parties doing the traverse of the Drus, the glacier remains passable , but perhaps not for long. “Good if one likes the Himalayas”.
In the Albert 1er sector, it is preferable to approach Aig du Tour by the Col du Tour, (fixed ropes in place,) as the Col Supérieur is very dry. The summit slope of the Petite Fourche is ice.
Alpine Club Greeting Cards
Hilda Marion Hechle (1886-1939), Fee Glacier and Allalinhorn, watercolour (38 x 53 cm) © The Alpine Club Collection [HE015P]
Charles Pilkington (1850–1918), Cuillins from Balmacara (1889), watercolour (11 x 18 cm) © The Alpine Club Collection [GM007P]
The Alpine Club blank greeting cards are available in a pack of ten, consisting of two distinctive designs (five cards of each design). The images are stunning and, as a pair, offer a greetings pack with a lot of image contrast suitable for all occasions. The Hechle image is very stark, graphic with strong contrast, whilst the Pilkington is soft, monochromatic and elegant. Each pack costs £7.00, P&P of £2 for 1 or 2 packs and £3 for 3 (or each multiple of 3). Overseas postage – please contact the Office Manager via e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
To purchase cards: Please contact This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or to 020 7613 0755
Or order online using PayPal
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 16/08/20
A general update on conditions based on recent information received by Chamoniarde from various sources.
Italian Side of Mont Blanc
Climbing continues in the Monzino sector, e.g. Vitale Ratti on the Noire and on the Aiguille Croux. The best approach to the Eccles is still by the glacier. The Freney is still being done. The approach to the Pilier Rouge has become more complicated, it is necessary to go via the Eccles.
There is no recent information for the normal Italian route up Mont Blanc.
In the Helbronner sector the bergschrunds are OK for the climbs on the satellites, with the exception of the Pyramide du Tacul, which is delicate. There are no particular problems for the traverses of the Aiguilles d'Entrêves and Marbrées. The approach to the Salle à Manger, (Dent de Geant) is dry. It is important to keep to the track and be wary of stone fall from other parties, (or your own.) The Rochefort ridge remains OK. The traverse of the Jorasses is being done regularly. The normal route on the Jorasses is also still being done but it is at the limit. There is ice higher up, (2 ice axes recommended, ice screws), the glaciers are passable but have some large crevasses/holes.
Conscrits Sector
Dômes de Miage traverse: The Tré la Tête glacier is still in good condition. The ridge is all on snow but the descent to the col de la Bérangère is awkward with sections of ice, (good crampon skills needed). Doing the traverse west to east is easier.
It is over for the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête as the North Aiguille summit ridge and the Col des Glaciers are completely ice. For the Pain de Sucre and Mont Tondu there are some good snow slopes which allow most of the ice to be avoided on the way to the summit.
Snow patches help on the descent from the Aiguille de la Bérangère.
Durier Sector
Conditions for the Bionnassay ridge are good, all on snow and with a good track. The descent is awkward, foresee a night in the Gouter to allow an early morning descent,
Aiguilles de Chamonix Sector
- Peigne : since the landslip in the Papillons couloir, parties have been seen on the ridge and the normal route. The couloir is pockmarked from impacts but this does not seem to have affected progression.
- Charmoz-Grépon : the bergschrund at the base is very wide. It was still passable on the 8th and 9th August by climbing down into it, (this could change). The Nantillons Glacier has some sections of ice; no information concerning the rockfall risk.
- Pilier Rouge de Blaitière : there is a ramp of snow for the approach.
- Aiguille de l'M : no comments
Cosmiques Sector
The Tacul is still climbable but the snow bridges are weakening, notably in the middle section. There has been no feedback for the crossing of Mont Maudit. It was re-tracked on 15th August, (30 cms of fresh snow.)
The Cosmiques Ridge remains very dry. There have been reports of some unstable blocks and water seepage at the exit chimney, ( to be kept an eye on)
Activity on the Pointes Lachenal traverse has been limited. There is a large bergschrund and also ice, which was covered by thin layer of snow on the 13th August. Many parties have turned back before the abseil, (large blocks standing on unstable sand/gravel.) The last Point is to be avoided, as the descent is exposed to seracs
The bergschrunds for the rock routes in this sector remain passable, for the moment.
Envers des Aiguilles Sector
The bergschrunds for Marchand de Sable - Pedro Polar have become awkward. It would appear the bridge across the Grépon-République bergschund has collapsed, (awaiting conformation). Stone fall was reported yesterday in the Bec d'Oiseau gully (do not hang about below the faces). Crampons are needed to reach the foot of the routes. The other bergschrunds in the sector are OK.
Charpoua Sector
The glacier is becoming more chaotic, but still passable by the lower track. The Drus traverse therefore, remains feasible. The Moine is being climbed on regularly (Voie du Druide - Sale Athée), and also the Flammes de Pierre. Crampons are needed for the approach to the Contamine on the Évêque.
The hut closes on the 27th August.
Couvercle Sector
The glacier is still OK for the S ridge and normal routes on the Moine. For the E face, there are no problems with the bergschrund, (the snow is remains reasonably high up to the face). The Nonne-Évêque traverse is still being done. The bergschrund for the Moine Ridge on the Verte is challenging and should be checked out first, (awaiting further information.)
Leschaux Sector
The rock routes on the Aiguille de Pierre à Joseph, Leschaux and Petites Jorasses are in condition.
Numerous parties did the Walker Spur, (Cassin) last week, (with stone fall linked to its popularity). Conditions are likely to change with for rain/snow forecasted. Contact the hut for more information.
Argentière Sector:
Here rock climbing is the name of the game!
Tour Sector
The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and the S Ridge of the Purtcheller are still being done.
Emosson Sector
The dam will be closed for the entire day on the 18th August. There will be no access the Loriaz path, Vieux Emosson, Vieux hut or the dinosaur prints area.
CONDITIONS MONTAGNES 03/08/20
A quick update of the general conditions.
The short heat wave last week cleared a lot of stabilising snow from the mountains.
The good conditions that prevailed for the snow and mixed routes in July are now a distant memory.
The brief cold snap and snow today, (Monday,) will merely hide the underlying bad conditions for a few days. At high altitude, be aware of the risk of small avalanches, (depending on the amount of snow deposited,) over the next couple of days.
With the return of the hot weather and with the 0ºC isotherm around 4500m foreseen for Wednesday, the best choice will be the (solid) rock routes. The glacier approaches are still OK, (take care with the snow bridges if the freezing is poor), as are most of the bergschrunds. However, this can quickly change from one day to the next.
On the normal route up Mont Blanc, the condition of the Grand (Goûter) couloir has degraded considerably, giving a serious risk from stone fall. At the end of last week, many parties, and especially those with professional guides, turned back. Before setting out, it is important to be mentally prepared to turn around should conditions not be right on reaching the couloir.
For more specific information, contact the Chamoniarde directly.
News has reached us of the death of our member, Jeremy Whitehead.
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