Interview by Adele Long
How long have you been a member of the AC?
I became a member of the Alpine Climbing Group in 1972, which was then part of the AC. It wasn't until 1977, when someone asked me to propose them for the AC and the membership secretary at the time said ‘you can't do that, mate, you’re not an AC member!’, that I joined the AC.
Uisdean Hawthorn and Tom Livingstone went to the Central Alaska Range for 7 weeks in May/June 2017. Unfortunately they were unsuccessful in all their objectives (a new route on the Father and Sons Wall, reaching the summit of Mt. Hunter/Begguya via the Moonflower, and the Slovak Direct on Denali).
March has been decidedly capricious and does not likely to change in the coming days.
The snow fall at altitude was significant with about a metre of snow settling at 2500m at the beginning of the week. This was followed by a beautiful day, then a period of strong foehn conditions.
The wind gusts at altitude were over 140km/h at times, causing drifting. Given the general conditions this winter it is important to stay vigilant.
The Valley Blanche was skied on Wednesday and again today (Friday), some people reported there was” too much snow”. A very high level of skiing ability is essential.
Concerning the gullies; at last, some information:
- Pas d'Agonie 1 on the Rognon was OK but with a lot of snow at the exit.
- Mercier-Lucena on the Pointes Lachenal was also OK
- The Chéré was climbed but no further information.
- Pas d'Agonie 2 and 3 appeared to be climbable.
The season for ice climbing on the cascades is coming to an end, although conditions at the Cascade de Bérard, the Crèmerie and Déferlante remain OK for the moment. One should remember that it is now the second half of March.
Ski touring is still the main activity for the moment.
The tunnel at Emosson is impassable, (blocked by snow).
The season for the Haute Route is starting, but with the bad weather, there have been no reports yet.
The Argentière hut is open.
The Conscrits hut was due to open this weekend but this has now been delayed for several days.
Snow shoeing remains practicable in the Bérard Valley, les Granges, Loriaz, Samoteux, Chailloux, Prarion, Les Ayères...
The footpaths along the valley floor are mostly accessible but good boots and hiking poles are essential and possibly also crampons.
Given the number of phone calls and emails the Chamoniarde has received, it is felt that a clarification is needed concerning hiking.
Though Spring has arrived in the plains, this is not the case in the mountains.
It has been a hard winter with large quantities of snow still present at altitude. Hiking above 2000m is not an option and is unlikely to be so before the end of May and even then, not on all trails.
Unless there is a particularly warm, sunny, Spring, the lakes at altitude, like Lac Blanc or the Grands Balcons Nord and Sud will not be practicable during the Easter holidays nor the May bank holidays. The lifts at Brévent-Flégère remain open until 23rd April and the change from winter to summer does not happen in the blink of an eye.
The same applies to the Tour des Aiguilles Rouges and the Tour du Mont Blanc where complete autonomy and the correct equipment is essential. Signposts and waymarks may be buried, and snowfields hard packed.
Most of the huts will not open before mid-June.
Other hikes are possible, so you may need to modify your plans.. Consider getting advice before and during your trip.
As usual, the Chamoniarde asks you to give them feedback on your outings/experiences
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We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Jack Jackson.
Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
It is with sadness that we report the death of Club Member Donald Barr-Wells.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
The recent, unsettled weather has prevented activity at altitude, where there have been significant snowfalls together with strong winds.
On the morning of 8th March there was about 60 to 70cmsof fresh snow above 2500m, the wind remaining strong from the W/SW in the high mountain, causing drifts.
There have been virtually no reports received since the last update.
Some ski tours will be possible during breaks in the weather, but the selection of routes will be limited. It is necessary to adapt to the daily conditions and use the information from B.E.R.A.
The Valley Blanche was skied on 08-03, lots of fresh snow but no other information.
No recent information about ice climbing.
The signposted trails for snow shoeing are accessible, though remain with hard snow or ice in places. For the most part, snow shoes are only useful to stop slips. Good boots, poles and even crampons are often more suitable.
Some high mountain huts will open soon for the ski touring season. The "refuges" page has the dates.
Please do not forget to write up your outings in the Chamoniarde route book (cahier de courses") or your observations on conditions in the online app "Obsalp".
The Avellano Towers are an incredible place in the Patagonian wilderness of Chile. Taking Jim Donini up on his offer of, “something a little different”, 5 years ago is one of the best things I’ve ever done.
Interview by Stuart Worsfold
How did it all start for you with climbing? Did your parents climb as well or were they just walkers?
I got into the outdoors through walking with my parents, but they didn't do any climbing. Walking up Snowdon would be an extreme expedition for them. In fact, I didn't really like walking when I was small, especially if I could see how far I had to walk, so they find what I do now quite amusing.
The very cold conditions at the start of the week gave way to warmer weather together with strong winds and a couple of centimetres of new snow.
On Friday 2nd March about 20cms of fresh snow fell at 2000 / 2500m and 40cms at the Aig du Midi. The wind is still present above 2000m, causing snow drifts.
The new information received since the last update:
Ski touring remains the main activity, with a good cover of snow, though the conditions are now very variable.
Brèche Puiseux was in good condition on 26-02. There is a rope in place at the col.
Two 60m abseils are necessary to descend from the Col du Tacul to the Capucin glacier.
Information on other activities at altitude are anecdotal.
The Aiguille Verte was climbed on 27-02, up the Couturier and down the Whymper. More information in the OHM route book , in which you are invited to record your own outings.
The gullies remain very dry. However, the Pellissier on the Pointes Lachenal was done on 27-02, friable ice at the start then sections of dry. Another party was on M6 Solar, where the conditions were not good.
Claire Chazal was done om 25/02, no further information.
The Valley Blanche is OK but take care as the recent snow will have hidden some of the crevasses. It is still possible to ski to Chamonix, with only a couple of walking sections on the descent from Les Mottets.
Cogne remains popular for ice climbing, the options being limited in the Chamonix valley.
On the Argentière true left bank, (rive gauche), Déferlante is OK but Mini Couloir is “grise mine”, (rock hard grey ice).
The ice climbing venue at Bérard is OK.
The snow on Friday will have improved conditions for snow shoeing. A lot of the trails had become very icy, better suited to crampons than snow shoes!
The Cosmiques hut is now open. The Simond bivouac is no longer accessible.
The Argentière hut should open on 9th March, the Albert 1er on 17th March and the Grands Mulets on 27th March, to be confirmed, depending on the weather.
Link to the latest B.E.R.A.
Members are invited to take part in the Club’s 2018 photo competition.
Latest mountain information :
Ski touring remains the main activity despite some bad weather at the end of last week. The snow/rain limit went as high as 2300m, with a lot of fresh snow above this.
The avalanche risk remains at 3/5 and not all the classic tours have been retraced yet. Caution is still needed. The snow remains cold on the north facing slopes but is beginning to transform on those facing south.
Argentière Sector : the cols du Passon, du Tour Noir, du Chardonnet (3 Cols) and d'Argentière are tracked. The Glacier du Milieu is tracked up until the base of the final slopes, (20/02). No information for the north faces or gullies in this sector.
Mer de Glace Sector: the Valley Blanche has been popular these last few days. Conditions are mainly good but it still for expert skiers only. The crest of the ridge and the “Z” track are equipped. Take care selecting the correct way into the “Salle a Manger” area. The descent to Chamonix via Les Mottets is still very good, despite some sections with poor snow cover,
The exit from the Pas de Chevre is awkward, with a lot of stonefall once the sun hits it. One is advised not to do this route.
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The Col du Tacul, the Brèche Puiseux and the way up to the Couvercle hut are tracked.
The Talèfre basin looks to be OK. As to be expected, there is a bergschrund at the base of the Whymper.
Aiguilles Rouges : a popular sector. The Bérard valley has hard snow/ice but goes OK. The Buet is tracked.
There has been very little activity concerning “classic” alpinism or the gullies. Only ascents of the Cosmiques Ridge and the Chéré couloir have been reported. For the Chéré, the first two pitches are more technical than usual, (difficult to place ice screws due to the ice being too thin or too hard.) Conditions improve above this.
The snow on the marked paths for snow shoers tends to be very hard/icy. Though OK, snow shoes or crampons + poles are essential.
Since the last update, there was snowfall on 2nd February of about 30cms at 2000m.
Ski touring has since been very popular in the Argentière, Tour and Aiguilles Rouges sectors.
Chamoniarde has received the following information:
- when descending the true left bank of the Tour Glacier, (e.g. from the Col du Passon), it is best to exit to the right, (below the glacier.)
- Valley Blanche conditions: the snow quality is bad, (crusty / corrugated). The wind has caused numerous crevasses to reappear, often partially hidden by “cock’s combs”, (icy ridges.)
- at the entry into the “salle à manger” under the Requin hut, there is a particularly treacherous crevasse, take care!
- there are now 2 ropes installed on the Aig du Midi ridge and the descent with crampons goes well. The « Z » track is still under construction.
The AC / CC Ice Meet in L’Argentiere La Bessee started out with 3 days of appalling weather, raining at valley level and dumping lots of snow higher up. The main areas of Fornell and Freissenieres were not easily accessible. At this stage the trip was already spoilt by the loss of our leader to the flu. Smiler couldn’t come. By the end of day three everyone had found something to climb or ski on but spirits were low. Then it all changed. Clear skies and lower temperatures brought a smile to everyones faces.
There has been a lot of activity during the recent good weather, which now is due to deteriorate for the next few days.
Ski touring conditions have generally been good with most of the classic routes tracked. Snow quality varies according to altitude and aspect.
The cols in the Argentière sector have been done, including the 3 Cols. (foresee a 30m abseil from the Col du Chardonnet.)
There has also been activity at the Col des Cristaux , Col des Courtes and the NE face of the Courtes.
Tête Blanche was done via the Col du Passon. The descent to La Tour is good, apart from the lower part where conditions are pretty average.
A lot of activity in the Aiguilles Rouges, no further information on the snow quality.
The Buet and Col de la Terrasse are tracked. The climb up to Loriaz is exclusively by the forestry track. The path leading off to the right between Les Granges and la Croix de Loriaz is closed by a council order.
If descending by Tré les Eaux, a rope is needed to cross the torrent. Bel Oiseau from La Léchère is tracked.
The Vallée Blanche is popular. For the moment, only the crest of the ridge is equipped with safety ropes. Brèche Puiseux and the Col du Tacul are in good condition.
The descent to Chamonix via Les Mottets is good for the moment. It has been “piste bashed” but care is still needed.
No information concerning the alpine gullies; the faces still look very dry.
Ice Climbing: Cogne has the best conditions, though there has been some activity on the Rive Gauche of the Argentière Glacier (EMHM, Mini Couloir, Tequila Stuntman, Crèmerie).
Snow Shoeing: Conditions are OK though the snow is fairly hard, crusty or icy depending on the sector and altitude
A big thank you to those people who have contributed to the online route book.
Elizabeth Hawley, for most mountaineers on their way to climb in the Nepalese Himalaya, was like a venerable aunt you did not want to cross. She was made an Honourary Member of the Alpine Club in 2013. Many expedition leaders will remember a knock on their Kathmandu hotel door that awoke them from a jet lagged slumber. "Miss Hawley is waiting downstairs to see you sir," the deskman would say. Liz knew when you were in town and where. She would greet you cordially in a crisp, no nonsense American accent that spoke of both an excellent education and impeccable manners. She was a petite woman with aquiline features, glasses always perched halfway down her nose. Peering over those glasses, her eyes interrogated you as much as her questions. She never missed a chance to extract every ounce of information about your plans over tea and toast. In return, Liz gave us the latest news; who was where; doing what; tips on unexpected access or porter problems.
Oberland, Switzerland
Saturday 23rd June - Saturday 7th July
Details of the Oberland Meet are now confirmed. Aimed at all members, both aspirant members who are looking to gain more experience with a view to completing their AC 20 alpine peaks, and full members who might have taken a break from alpine climbing and are looking to return to the action. The meet is aimed at all skill levels, and the Bernese Oberland is a great location for picking off numerous PD routes, and for developing an alpine CV.
After several weeks of severe weather, things are slowly returning to normal. To check on the latest situation for the lifts click here. .
With the better weather, there is again activity in the mountains.
Vallée Blanche: A single fixed rope has been in place on the ridge since 24th January. The conditions remain variable, requiring a very good ski technique. The lift from the ice caves back up to Montenvers is still closed, making it necessary to return via les Mottets.
As well as damaging the lift installations, the winds have stripped the mountain faces. The Tacul Triangle, the Tour Ronde and the Grand Jorasses are grey, (bare ice.)
At Argentière, the top lift at Grand Montets is still closed for maintenance. To reach the Argentière glacier one needs to set off from the top of the Herse or the Bochard. The Cols du Tour Noir and Passon are tracked, no further information.
Ice Climbing: EMHM and Déferlante have been climbed but the Rive Droite still looks out of condition.
Ski Touring: Conditions should soon improve, Flégère has only just re-opened and the OHM/Chamoniarde has not received any news about the tours in the Aiguilles Rouges.
The way up to Loriaz and the Bosse des Charmoz is tracked. It is necessary to remove the skis to get past some fallen trees. Only the forest track is allowed, the summer path between Granges and La Croix is closed by an arrêté municipal.
Snow Shoeing: The signposted routes are accessible. There are sections of bare ice on the footpaths along the valley floor; hiking poles and maybe small crampons, are advisable.
The Chamoniarde relies on your feedback to create the updates. Please do not hesitate to write up your outings in the cahier de courses or give them a phone call. Whether the conditions were good or bad, the information is always useful and most welcome.
We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Richard Gilbert.
Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
The ACG/YAG winter meet was a great success with teams getting out on both days of the weekend. Mixed classics such as North Buttress on the Buachaille, Neanderthal in the Lost Valley, Chimney Route, Original Route, Scabbard Chimney, Crest Climb on Stob Coire, Flake Route and Crypt Route on Church Door Buttress and Cutlass on the Ben were climbed.
At last the good weather has returned!
Be careful along the valley floor, there is hard packed snow with patches of bare ice on the footpaths. This is the case up to about 1800m
Ski Touring: In the Aiguilles rouges the cols Belvédère – Dards – Crochues Bérard are tracked. Depending on altitude and aspect, the snow can be crusted, and becoming heavy below, 2300m.
The cols Cicle and Fenêtre at Contamines are also tracked.
Aiguillette des Posettes by the Ardoisières : take care at the start, hard snow with frozen avalanche debris, (not for beginners.)
Argentière Sector: The top cable car at Grands Montets is still not open (12th January) due to security checks following the storms. It has been reported that, following 6 days of snow, the cols look to be OK except for the glacier du Milieu.
Clearly, a lot of other ski tours are now tracked, though we have not received any information for the moment.
Vallée Blanche: It is being skied! The ridge is not yet equipped, (some stakes only) and the route has a mountaineering feel to it at the start of this season. The level of snow cover is generally good. The «Salle à Manger » is OK. The way to the Mottets is tracked. There is some verglas on the track down to Chamonix.
Ice climbing: Parties have gone to the Cremerie and Argentiere Rive Gauche, no further information for the moment.
Winter Mountaineering and Gullies: No information for the moment.
This update is brief, and is limited by the amount of information received by the OHM.
