Report 8th July 2017

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Created: Saturday, 08 July 2017 18:15

Some miscellaneous information following the recent good weather.

Nearly all the snow that fell at the end of June has now melted away. The mixed routes, which temporarily came back into condition, are now dry again.  Despite the high temperatures in the valleys, the situation at altitude is OK, though night time freezing is variable. Concerning the rock routes, the bergschunds are causing difficulties in some sectors.

No major changes in the Albert 1er sector, except that the Chardonnet descent is becoming more awkward, (lots of ice).  The Forbes Ridge is just about feasible but the numerous sections of ice require good technical ability. The Migot Spur is no longer practicable.

The Petite Verte is bare ice again.  Stone fall experienced on the approach to the Minaret (05/07).

Stone fall also reported on the Grutter, Aiguille des Pèlerins.  The Frendo has been climbed, with a lot of ice in the upper part and stone fall risk from the summit buttress, (respect the time of day.)

For hikers and climbers, the first train to Montenvers is at 8h00 and the last train down at 18h30.

Good conditions reported for the Drus traverse.  Some snow still at the summit of the Petit Dru, not enough to cause any problems but enough for drinking water if bivovuacing.  (N.B. The Charpoua hut is open!)   Too much snow on the Grand Dru summit for a bivouac.   The descent of the Charpoua glacier is OK, keeping more or less directly below the Y couloir on the Verte.

Leschaux sector:  The rock is dry, with the exception of the Walker which still has some snow.

Envers sector: The bergschrunds are staring to cause problems. Contact the hut warden for details of the route(s) you want to do. The descent of Nantillons glacier is awkward  It is better to descend from the Grepon by abseilling down "Le soleil a rdv avec la lune".

Mont-Blanc: The Trois Monts route remains OK.  No problems with the first bergschrund on the Tacul for the moment. However, the bergschrund in the middle has widened considerably and the large snow bridge there is weakening.  Do not forget that this route traverses under the Tacul and Mont Maudit seracs.   A fixed rope with knots and metal link has been placed at the Col du Mont Maudit, (a lot of bare ice).  The traverse to Brenva Col is in good condition, as long as you keep below the bergschrund.

The Grand Couloir and approach to the Gouter hut are in “summer” conditions, i.e. dry.  Take heed of the safety advice.

On the Italian side, the Aiguilles Grises route has been done but the glacier du Dôme is becoming a maze of crevasses.

Reasonable conditions for the Tricot integral, the Bionnassay traverse, the Kuffner Ridge and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse, though they are more technically demanding than usual.

Walt Unsworth

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Thursday, 06 July 2017 15:05

It is with sadness that we have learnt that Walt Unsworth died on the 7th of June. He was born in 1928 and elected a Member in 1968. He also founded Cicerone Press. A full obituary will follow.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Report 5th July 2017

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Created: Thursday, 06 July 2017 05:51

Here is the latest information, following the recent, mixed weather.

It snowed down to about 2500m at the end of last week but, with the exception of a few shaded areas high up, the rock is now dry again.

The recent snowfall has temporarily improved conditions for some of the snow and mixed routes but with very warm weather, the bare ice is reappearing again.  This process will be accelerated over the next few days: early starts and extra care are needed!

- Albert 1er : No problems for the Aiguille du Tour with the exception of the Table Couloir, which has been out of condition for some  time now. Conditions OK at the moment for the Cols du Pissoir and Midi des Grands The normal routes on the Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche are also OK but be aware the snow bridges on the approach are now weak.

Concerning the Chardonnet, only the Forbes Ridge has been done and not in good conditions, (recent serac fall at the start and ice on the route).  2 x 60m ropes are useful for the descent of the normal route and there is a wide crevasse blocking the way, (though possible to get around for the moment.)

- Argentière : The normal route on the Petite Verte was done in good condition on 04/07.  Cols du Tour Noir and Argentière are tracked.   Good, mixed conditions for the Flèche Rousse Ridge.  There is a lot of ice on the Glacier du Milieu, (a good cramponning technique needed.)  The bergschrund goes on the true left bank, (right looking upwards,) then traverse to the true right side, (thin snow bridge.)    The rock routes near the hut are in good condition.

- La Charpoua :  The rock has dried quickly and parties left today (05/07) for “Sale Athée” and the  “Contamine”  on the Evèque.  There is still some snow left high up but not enough to cause problems and the traverse of the Drus looks feasible.

- Le Couvercle : The rocks near the hut are dry but the Moine Ridge on the Verte still has too much snow.  The Whymper Couloir is not at all feasible but the traverse of the Courtes, (there and back) should be possible, (good ability and early start essential).  The Point Isabelle is very awkward and with a wide bergschrund.

- Leschaux : The rocks near the hut are dry but the Grandes Jorasses still has too much snow.

- Envers des Aiguilles : Parties climbing everywhere on dry rock.  The bergschrund for the “Subtilité Dulférienne” is no longer possible and that for the “Soleil a rendez-vous avec la Lune” is awkward.

- Requin : Good conditions for rock climbing near the hut. Continuing up the Valley Blanche still possible, though care needed with weak snow bridges.   

- Torino : The Dent du Géant is in good condition but the Rochefort Arete is narrow and pointed and the approach is becoming dry.  Parties on the traverses of the Aiguilles d’Entrèves and Marbrées, the Kuffner and the Aiguilles du Diable, no further information.  With the hot weather, there is a stone fall danger, especially around the Tour Ronde.  Rock climbing virtually everywhere in the Cirque Maudit and on the Tacul satellites. 

- Cosmiques : Rock climbs in condition.  Also, the Contamine Negri and Mazeaud have been done, no further information.  The Pointes Lachenal traverse is back in condition.  The Tacul and Maudit are tracked, no further information.  The Midi-Plan Arete, (to the Aig du Plan, there and back,) was done today, (05/07) in generally good conditions, though ice is beginning to reappear in some places.

- Grands Mulets : The traverse of  the Pèlerins  glacier from the Plan de l’Aiguille  is done at the level of the buvette, (way markers) and not by following the path marked on the IGN map. After the traverse, the moraine goes OK at the level of the “point jaune”, (yellow marker?). Glacier des Bossons and Jonction are OK, (way markers). Take care below the hut as the snow bridges are becoming weaker.   Good conditions at the moment for the Nord du Dôme ridge.

- Goûter : The Mont Blanc normal route is basically in good condition but care needed crossing the Grand Couloir.  It is essential to move quickly and to cross as early as possible, (both on the up and the down.)

- Durier : The Bionnassay Ridge is in good condition.

- Conscrits : The  Dômes de Miage traverse is still feasible despite  a very narrow and pointed section and ice appearing  some areas.  No problems for the Bérangère.

- Gonella : The normal Italian route up Mont Blanc is in good condition. The latest information for the Tournette Spur is that it is not in condition.

- Monzino :  Parties left today (05/07) for the Peuterey, Innominata Integrals and the Brouillard Ridge, no further information.  No special problems for the approaches to the Eccles bivouac and the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard.

Hiking :

A reminder that all the paths between the Floria and Flégère are closed until 28th July because of works, (copy of the legal decision available on the Chamoniarde site.)  

There has been a land slip below the Aiguille Pourrie which crossed the South Grand Balcon path.  This area remains unstable, so do not linger here.   Crampons are no longer needed for the normal way up Mont Buet but there are still snow patches so good hiking boots and walking poles are essential.

Report 30th June 2017

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Created: Friday, 30 June 2017 14:57

A quick update following the bad weather this week.

Snow has settled down to 2300/2500m but this will quickly disappear below 3000m with the sun.

Above this, there is 15cms of fresh snow at the Torino hut and 20cms at the Cosmiques hut, (40cms of windblown snow throughout the week), 30cms of windblown snow at the Gouter hut and 20cm at the Envers hut. (see photo).

Since the beginning of the week, at lot more snow has probably fallen above 3800m and the snow cover will have been affected by the strong winds.  This will have created an avalanche risk, notably on the 3 Monts route, for which it would be wise to wait a bit.

After the bad weather, the mixed routes look white again but the conditions are unlikely to have improved.  However, the temperatures have dropped and, if this continues there should be a, temporary, improvement in the general conditions at altitude.

Concerning the rock routes, it is necessary to wait a bit for the rocks to dry.

“An Invitation to Seek Blessings from His Holiness The Dalai Lama”

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Created: Wednesday, 28 June 2017 09:31

Not the kind of invitation you receive every day. And one AC vice-president Stephen Goodwin was more than happy to accept.

The invitation came from the Himalayan Club. As part of its 90^th anniversary celebrations, the HC had been fortunate enough to secure an audience with the Dalai Lama at Dharamsala, the Tibetan ‘capital in exile’ in Himachal Pradesh, India.

Young Alpinist Event, North Wales

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Created: Wednesday, 28 June 2017 08:58

The Alpine Club is working with the BMC to look at ways of helping young, talented British climbers to improve their skills and knowledge about expedition climbing.

As part of this process an evening meeting will be held at The Beacon Climbing Centre in North Wales on Saturday 15 July and all keen, young British alpinists are invited.

If you are an experienced, keen British alpinist under 35 years old and wish to attend then book a place on the event by emailing Nick Colton: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

This is not an introductory programme for alpine climbing, but targeted at those who already have significant experience in Scottish winter climbing, summer and winter alpinism and perhaps expeditions. You don't need to be jogging up North Faces or climbing Scottish grade VIII to come along, just to be actively climbing in the mountains and be excited about expedition alpine climbing. If this sounds like you then please come along!

CLICK HERE for more details

Report 23June 2017

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Created: Friday, 23 June 2017 19:43

An update of the report from 20th June following the rapid change in conditions due to the hot weather.

It continues to be very hot and stone fall is causing concern is some areas.  Generally, it is best to stick to climbs on stable rock, even though some snow/mixed routes remain feasible, (given a good freeze and an early start.)

Albert 1er sector: The descent gully from the Aiguille du Chardonnet is bare ice, it is necessary to carry abseil ropes. There are still sections of bare ice on the Forbes Ridge, (see 20/06 report.)  Good conditions on the Table Ridge and the normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Petite Fourche and Tête Blanche.

Argentière sector: The Grand Montets lifts open on Saturday 24/06.  The Petite Verte looks to be in bad condition, (bare ice).   The OHM is waiting for more condition reports (Petite Verte, Grands Montets Ridge to the Aiguille Verte…). 

Charpoua sector: The Contamine on the Grand Dru was climbed on 22/06 in good conditions. The glacier was OK, though maybe not for long.

Couvercle sector:  The bergschrund for the Moine Ridge is awkward and the upper part still has a lot (too much?) snow.

Envers des Aiguilles sector: The missing ladders and steps on the hut approach have been replaced.  The unstable zone above the start of the ladders has been purged but the area is still to be avoided after rain.  The granite climbs are in excellent condition, the bergschrunds still being OK.  The Ryan Ridge looks feasible. However, the start is complicated with 3 bergschrunds, keep to the rocks to the left, technical.  It is not recommended to descend the Nantillons glacier because of crevasses and stonefall.  Descent from the Grepon is possible by abseilling down the Piola route "Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la lune" on the Envers side, from Point Balfour.

Cosmique / Aiguille du Midi sector:   The 3 Monts remains popular, the Tacul is OK (use the righthand track,) some ice at the Col du Mont Maudit (2 axes useful for the leader, no fixed rope in place.)  Take the lower track towards the Col de la Brenva, (which goes along below the bergschrund, the higher track is exposed and icy).  The Contamines-Mazeaud and Grisolle on the Tacul Pyramide are feasible, given a good freeze and an early start.  The Gervasutti Pilla r is in good condition.

Torino / Helbronner sector: The Dent du Géant approach is dry but OK.  The Rochefort ridge is awkward, (very narrow and with ice sections) Different opinions, (depending technical ability?) reported for the Kuffner.  The bergschrund in the approach couloir is fragile. The Aiguilles du Diable traverse is still feasible.

Goûter: The dry, hot weather has increased the stonefall risk in the Grand Couloir, including the morning.   Conditions are not good and it is best to postpone plans for an ascent.

Monzino: The Eccles bivouac is accessible.  The Innominata ridge was done 22/06 in bad conditions.  Rocks/blocks were streaming down the gully between the two ridges. Therefore, it is not recommended until better freezing conditions prevail.   The Brouillard Ridge (integral) is also not recommended, due to unstable boulders. The Bonatti on the Brouillard Red Pillar has been climbed recently.  The belays and bolts on the Gabarrou-Long ont have been renewed. The pillar is dry, it was approached  by abseiling from the Eccles.

Stay safe !

The Chamoniarde ( http://www.chamoniarde.com/en/mountain-topics/climbing-report-book ), looks forward to your reports to help with future updates….

Report 20th June 2017

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Created: Wednesday, 21 June 2017 21:36

Starting with some information for hikers:

With the opening of some of the lifts, the hiking season is now well underway.

Most of the trails are without problems, despite the continued presence of some snow patches, (especially on north facing slopes in the Aiguille Rouges).  If there has been a clear, cold night, crampons may be essential for Mont Buet or for the descent from Col de Salenton towards Bérard.
No problems with the Col du Brévent and the path from the Index to Lac Blanc.  
Also, no problems to get to the Albert 1^er hut from the La Tour lifts.

The few snow patches between Platé and the Dérochoir, (above Plaine Joux,) do not cause any difficulties.  

Conditions for the Tour du Mont Blanc have improved and the Col des Fours and the Fenêtre d’Arpette are now feasible; some snow patches remain but these should soon disappear.  

For the alpinists:

With the current heatwave, many of the snow and mixed routes are rapidly going out of condition.    The approaches to some of the rock routes (bergschrunds and gullies) are also deteriorating and it is advised to consult the Office de Haute Montagne, the hut wardens or the guides etc, for the latest information.

- Albert 1^er: The Copt and Table couloirs are now out of condition for the season.  The Migot Spur is not to be recommended. The Forbes Arete remains feasible, despite some ice, (2 ice axes and some ice screws recommended).  The descent from the Chardonnet is OK for the moment.  The normal routes on the Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and Aiguille du Tour are OK but take care on the glacier and while crossing the bergschrunds.

- Argentière: The rock routes are free of snow.  Awaiting information on other routes, though they look to be very dry.

- Charpoua : The hut is open and the climbing conditions are good in this sector. A party has done the Petit Dru, (there and back) and the traverse looks feasible.  The glacier goes OK for the moment.  The approach to the hut is via the new ladders situated just before the Egralets.  Those opposite Montenvers were removed last year. Access to the Flammes de Pierre involves several pitches of climbing, abseiling on return, (the line is a bit to the right of the « old » way directly opposite Montenvers; topo available from the OHM. From Montenvers, please use the ladders and do not go via the ice caves.

- Couvercle: The Whymper Couloir is no longer feasible.  Rock climbing is the main activity for this sector, though the Courtes traverse is OK, if there is a good freeze and that one starts very early.  The moraine on the approach to Egralets is in bad condition and appears to be dangerous.  Use the new approach to be found a little earlier on the Mer de Glace.

The Jardin Ridge goes well for the moment as does the Grands Montets ridge, with some ice on the N side, (cable car shut.) The descent by the Moine ridge is still about 80% snow and technical. Also, the bergschrund is very wide.

- Leschaux: The rock near the hut is in condition including the Petites Jorasses (Anouk).  There is still snow on the top third of the N face of the. Grandes Jorasses but it is melting rapidly.
- Requin: Climbing above the hut, with the approaches being good.  Some parties have gone up the Valley Blanche.  Nobody on the Midi-Plan

- Envers des Aiguilles: Lots of activity in this sector.  Access and route conditions OK.

- Torino: Rock climbs in good condition but the approaches to some of the routes on the Tacul satelittes are becoming more awkward.   Traverse of the Aiguilles Marbrées and the Entrêves are being done. On the Tour Ronde, the SE ridge intergral is in condition.  Good conditions for the Dent du Géant but the Rochefort Ridge is awkward.  The traverse of the Valley Blanche towards the Aig du Midi is OK but care needed as some of the snow bridges are becoming weak.  Parties on the Kuffner by the direct approach but conditions are not great and it is still corniced in places.

- Cosmiques: With the heat, activity is mainly centered on the rock climbs.  The first pitch of the Chéré couloir is totally dry.  The Contamines Mazeaud and Grisolle look to be feasible, (given good freezing,) but the bergschrunds are big.  One party on the Pilier des 3 Pointes, supposedly in good condition.  Nobody on the Gervasutti Pillar, but looks like it should go.  The 3 Monts is popular.   The traverse of the Pointes Lachenal has been abandoned in favour of the Laurence and Cosmiques Aretes.

- Plan de l’Aiguille: The rocks in this sector are dry and in condition, though crampons may be necessary for some snow patches. Charmoz-Grépon in good condition but the Nantillons glacier will soon no longer be feasible.  Parties on the Frendo Spur, no further information other than the left exit being favoured.

- Grands Mulets:  No longer feasible with skis but conditions remain OK on foot. The Jonction goes well, (follow the higher line of indicators). The snow bridges in the bowl below the hut need care. The N ridge of the Dôme is in condition despite some ice, (no need yet to pitch it).

- Goûter: With the hot weather, the danger of stonefall has increased and it is very important to cross the Great couloir before the afternoon.  Work is being carried out on the rail track between Mont Lachat and the Nid Aigle and it is forbidden to walk on/near the track before 1/12/2017,  (by municipal order.). 

- Plan Glacier / Durier : Lancherons Ridge is dry and the glacier OK for the approach to the Durier hut.  Mettrier ridge is very dry. Bionnassay traverse in generally good condition, despite several cornices.  

- Conscrits: It is best to approach the hut by the suspension bridge footpath, rather than by the glacier.  Central peak of Dôme via the col des Dômes, (there and back) in good condition but the traverse is more awkward. There is a 20m section of bare ice that is very narrow and needs to be passed “a cheval”. Descent to the Bérangère has some ice, which can be by-passed for the moment.   Mont Tondu is in condition, with some ice, easily avoided. Traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête is condition but with an ice pitch at the summit of the N peak.

- Monzino: conditions perfect for the rock routes.  Parties on the Innominata, no further information. The Brouillard Ridge intergral was done on 16/17 June.  Some snow after the Col Rey then inconsistent snow on the exit from the S face and in the exit gully.

Without doubt the conditions will change over the coming days as result of the heatwave. Take care!

 The Chamoniarde ( http://www.chamoniarde.com/?page_id=1857&lang=en ), looks forward to your reports to help with future updates….

Report 13th June 2017

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Created: Tuesday, 13 June 2017 21:34

Some news of mountain conditions during this period of heat and sun, with night time re-freezing either very weak or non-existent.  It is important to respect the time of day and chose routes not affected by the warm conditions.  With the heat, the paths at mid altitude are becoming free from snow. At mid altitudes, the heat is clearing the snow from the footpaths.

Hiking:
Though the snow is rapidly disappearing, some paths, namely those N facing, remain awkward.  No problems with the Plan d’Aiguille to Montenvers traverse.  The Planpraz lift is open but the Flegere lift only opens on the 17^th June.  No problems going to the Col Cornu and back but there is still snow on the path to the Col de la Glière and the lakes in this area remained covered. The Chésery Lakes are accessible and reappearing from under the snow.  However, there is still a lot of snow towards Lac Blanc, which remains iced over.

Because of work being carried out, it is forbidden to use the approach to Flégère by the main track, (Lanchers piste,) including all the paths that cross it, until 28^th July, (Council decision)..  This also means there is no access via the Floria Cafe

Some snow remains on the last part up to the Jonction, take care!

Condition are much improved for the Tour du Mont Blanc, though some sections still demand care and good equipment.

Alpinism:
- Albert 1er:  Until the lifts open this coming weekend, the approach to the hut is either by the moraine or by Charmillon.  On the Chardonnet, the Forbes Ridge and the Migot Spur have been climbed; some ice not in good condition but basically OK.  No particular problems experienced on the descent by the normal route.  The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche are in good condition.  The first third of the Table Couloir is dry, making the Table Ridge a better choice.   The Copt couloir was climbed on 10/06; there is an ice section in the middle, though conditions OK for the moment by keeping to the left.  

- Argentière: No information for the moment.

- Couvercle: climbing has started on the Moine, (normal route and S ridge,) the Nonne and the Evêque. The Whymper Coulir is still being climbed but conditions are deteriorating, the final ridge has become narrow and with soft snow.  A party completed the Couturier, where the conditions seem to remain OK for the moment.  The normal route on the Droites is tracked, as is part of the Courtes traverse.  The Pointe Isabelle remains feasible, though several of the snow bridges are becoming delicate.  Nobody has attempted Jardin Ridge yet and it does not look like crossing the bergschrund will be feasible for much longer.  

- Leschaux:  The hut is open; approach by the new ladders, taking care on the moraine.  The traverse from the Couvercle is OK, even though several snow patches remain. No problems for the approach to the Périades.  The Petites Jorasses looks to be in good condition.  There is still too much snow on the Walker Spur, (Grande Jorasses.)

- Le Requin: Good climbing in this sector, (Renaudie, Congo Star, Pierre Alain normal route, Chapeau à Cornes). Crevasses are appearing on the way back up the Valley Blanche, take care with snow bridges weakened by the heat.

- Envers des Aiguilles: The hut should open on the 16th June.  There are still a few snow patches between the ladders and the hut.  Some routes have been climbed recently in this sector but no further information.  The rock looks to be free of snow. 

- Torino:  A lot of activity in this sector; with the Marbrées and Entrêves traverses, Dent du Géant, Rochefort Arete (very narrow in places,) and the SE Ridge, N face and Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde in condition for the moment.  Parties are rock climbing on the Tacul satelittes.  The Kuffner ridge has been done but there are large cornices after the Androsace.and the warden recommends waiting still for better conditions.
The Brenva Spur has also been done, the bergschrund could prove awkward.  Theoretically, there should be no problems for the Aiguilles du Diable.

- Cosmiques:  Traverse of the Valley Blanche and the 3 Monts in condition.  There has been activity on the Contamine routes and the Chere couloir, (Tacul Triangle).  The bergschrund on the Grisolle is awkward.  Lots of parties on the Cosmiques Ridge and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal. A party turned back on the Midi-Plan because of poor re-freezing.
Good rock climbing conditions in this sector.

- Plan de l’Aiguille:  Parties climbing on the Aig d’M and the Peigne, crampons useful for the snow patches.  The Frendo Spur and the Mallory-Porter have been done, no further information.

- Grands Mulets: Though it is still just possible to do Mont Blanc with skis, it is now better on foot.  The traverse of the Jonction requires care but is still OK for the moment; (though becareful not to return too late in the day.)  Very good conditions for the N Ridge of the Dôme with only 2 x 15m sections of ice. The N face of Mont Blanc is in bad condition.

- Goûter:  Very popular, with good conditions for the Mont Blanc normal route. Be aware of the time of day and the risk of stonefall in the Grand Couloir.  The cable is now in place in the couloir.

.
- Plan Glacier: The Mettrier Ridge intégrale is mostly dry, crampons needed for the last 400 metres.  There are some snow patches on the hut approach from the Col de Tricot, but none that cause a problem.

- Conscrits: The summer approach path is nearly completely free of snow and OK for properly equipped hikers.  There is a very good track on the Dômes de Miage, which has a narrow and airy section on the traverse. Mont Tondu and the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête have been done in OK conditions. 
No information for the Bionnassay ridge, though it will certainly have been done.  Attention, however, with the poor re-freezing conditions.  

- Robert Blanc:  Good conditions for the alpinists, though snow remains on some of the footpaths.  Crampons and experience needed for crossing the Col du Bonhomme.

Report 7th June 2017

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Created: Wednesday, 07 June 2017 19:20

After the last few days of stormy weather, the forecast is now better. Since last weekend there has been about 30cm of new snow at 4000m and about 10cm at 2700m. At altitude, the snow is very windblown and the tracks have disappeared, for example on the Tacul.  The rock routes have a dusting of snow and will need a few days before they are dry again.

Activity in the high mountain is gradually starting again.

- Albert 1^er Sector:  The approach to the hut remains by the moraine.  The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and the Table Ridge (Tour) should be feasible. The Forbes Ridge looks to be in condition.

- Argentière Sector:  No information.

- Couvercle Sector: This morning (7th June) there was 10cm of wet snow at the hut.  Skis or Snow shoes are no longer necessary so long as one is away and back early enough.  The lower part of the Whymper is dry with danger of stonefall.  It is too early in the season for rock routes in this sector.

- Torino: 20cm of new snow with a wind predominantly from the North.  Parties left this morning for the Dent du Geant and the Aiguilles d’Entrêves.  The “Panoramic” bubbles are due to start running on Thursday (8th June).

- Cosmiques: about 20cm of new snow with strong winds this morning, mainly from the west.  The Laurence Ridge, the Cosmiques Ridge, the Pointes Lachenal traverse and the Chéré Couloir are all feasible.  Take care, there is a lot of unstable snow on the slopes of the Tacul.  

- Grands Mulets: about 15cm of fresh, melting snow. The traverses from the Plan de l’Aiguille and the Bossons glacier remain OK but it is necessary to carry the skis in several places and some sections on the glacier require care.

- Goûter: several parties left for the summit this morning.  The Bellevue cable car is due to open on Saturday (10th June), which will make the approach to the normal route up Mont Blanc easier.   The cable has not yet been re-installed for the traverse of the Grand Couloir.

- Les Conscrits: conditions are looking good.  Parties left for the Bérangère this morning.  The summer approach to the hut, (via the suspension bridge) is open but crampons and ice axe are essential. The approach by the glacier remains feasible but it is necessary to go to the very end of the “Mauvais Pas” to cross the torrent.

Conditions on the hiking trails have not changed much with problems starting above 2200/2300m. Good equipment is needed, especially for the Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB), i.e. good mountain boots, hiking poles, gaiters and possibly crampons.  The Col du Bonhomme, the Arp Vieille traverse towards Chécrouit and the Grand Col Ferret are the crux sections.

Above the Chamonix valley, the lakes at altitude are still under snow.  Nearer to Servoz, the Pormenaz lake can be approached via La Chorde but there is still a lot of snow on the route from Pormenaz chalets.
Some snow patches remain on the Grand Balcon Nord traverse but these should not be a problem for the well equipped walker.

The Planpraz lift is due to open this weekend.  There is still a lot of snow in this sector, especially if north facing.  Avoid travelling too “light”.   

Report 29 May 2017

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Created: Tuesday, 30 May 2017 07:47

The latest information following the good weather over the Ascension holiday weekend.

With the recent high temperatures, the snow has been rapidly melting at the mid altitudes.  Nonetheless, there is still a lot of snow above 2200 / 2300m.   

With good mountain boots and walking poles, the Cheserys lakes are now accessible.  However, the paths to Lac Blanc remain snowbound.  Though some lakes are beginning to reappear, (e,g. Jovet lakes),  most are still covered

The bigger hiking objectives, such as Mont Buet or the “Jonction”, are still not feasible .
The snow starts at around 1700m in the Berard valley.  The Albert 1er hut is best approached from Vormaine via the moraine, the snow starting some 50m below the hut. There is still far too much snow to traverse in from Charmillion

People are starting to walk the Grand Balcon Nord. Careful, there are some large patches of hard snow and one needs to be properly equipped.  The path from Chamonix to the Plan de l’Aiguille is OK but the Pré du Rocher path is not.
No particular problems for the Bellachat and the Aiguillette des Houches.

Conditions are improving for the Tour du Mont Blanc but the right equipment remains essential. 

The ski touring season is virtually over at mid altitudes, though there are still some possibilities in the Emosson dam area, (Pointe de la Terrasse – Pointe des Charmoz).
Following the several days of hot weather, skiing the Valley Blanche is no longer to be recommended.

In the high mountain there has also been a rise in temperatures and the rock routes are becoming free of snow. (Respect the time of day and the limited re-freezing.)

- Les Conscrits: The Dômes de Miage and the Aiguille de la Bérangère remain popular. The ski touring has basically finished in this sector. The traverse of the Bionnassay was done in generally good conditions.

- Plan Glacier: No problems for the approach from the Chalets de Miage. The Mettrier ridge intergral was done recently.  The lower part was dry, conditions improved afterwards.
With better re-freezing, the Dômes de Miage N Face should come into condition; there is very little bare ice at the moment. The approach to the Durier hut via the Lancherons is tracked and nearly all on snow.

- Mont Blanc: the Italian route via Gonella is tracked and in good condition.  The Tournette Spur was done on 25/05 in generally good conditions. The Gouter route is also being done (the train and cable car remain closed).  Respect the time of day for crossing the Grand couloir.
3 Monts from the Cosmiques is tracked, conditions good, but still with a bit of ice at the Mont Maudit col.
Parties are continuing to ski the Grands Mulets route, (by the N ridge of the Dome and the Plateaux). The N Face of Mont Blanc is still being skied.  Conditions for the traverse of the Jonction are worsening, with some fragile snow bridges. It is now necessary to carry the skis in several places to reach the Plan de l’Aiguille.

- Plan de l’Aiguille:  Eugster Diagonal and Frendo Spur (left exit) have been climbed, no further information.  Likewise, for the Papillons Arete.

- Cosmiques: Climbing on the Tacul Triangle including the Contamine Négri, (quite a lot of ice,) the Grisolle and the Chéré. Start early and check the freezing conditions!  The Laurence Arete, the Cosmiques Arete and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal are all in good condition.
The rock routes exposed to the sun are free of snow, except on the larger ledges.

- Torino: generally good conditions except for the gullies and the normal route on the Tour Ronde. The Diables Ridge has been climbed despite still having a lot of snow.

- Requin: There is about 1h30 of walking to reach Montenvers and the Brèche Puiseux is no longer recommended, (ice/rock in the middle).  The Requin hut is reached by the ladders. The way back up to the Aiguille du Midi is OK but beware of fragile snow bridges.

- Couvercle: approach by the Egralets. Parties have climbed the Whymper and the Col Armand Charlet. The normal route on the Droites looks feasible.  The traverse from the NE of the Courtes has been done. Descent of the Talèfre face by the Col des Droites OK.  A party has done the Couturier, some sections of ice but mostly good by keeping to the right, (looking upwards). Snow shoes useful for the approaches.  It is too early for the rock routes in this sector.

- Argentière: No further information other than the Couturier and NE of the Courtes mentioned above.

- Albert 1er: Good conditions for the normal route on the Aiguille du Tour despite the poor re-freezing. The Migot Spur and the Forbes Ridge look to be in condition.

- Good conditions reported for Mont Dolent, normal route and the Gallet ridge.

The Via Corda on the Rochers des Mottets has not been re-equipped after being vandalised for a second time last year. The Via Corda at Argentiere, (opened July 2016,) provides an alternative.

Announcing the George Starkey Hut Maintenance Meet

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Parent Category: News

Created: Tuesday, 16 May 2017 21:16

Report 16th May 2017

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Created: Tuesday, 16 May 2017 17:35

Here is the latest news of what has been happening during this spell of good weather.  Following the series of snowfalls, skis or snow shoes are necessary in the high mountain.  Temperatures are rising significantly and conditions are changing rapidly.  Be warned, avalanches are likely, (especially in the afternoon,) on susceptible slopes that have not yet purged.

Mont Blanc was climbed yesterday by the Grands  Mulets.  The Jonction is good on skis.  On the N ridge of the Dôme, the ice is never far from the surface, despite the recent snow, (technical axe and good crampons, with parties short roping.)   The Mont Blanc N face has been skied.  Parties left this morning on skis for the ascent by the Trois Monts.  No news concerning the normal route, (Gouter).

Cosmiques Sector: the Cosmiques ridge, Lolo (Laurence?) ridge and Pointes Lachenal traverse have been done.  The approaches to these routes are tracked and accessible on foot.  On the Tacul Triangle, the Chere couloir has inevitably been climbed. Yesterday, a party climbed the Contamine Négri and skied down the Gervasutti couloir, (no info on conditions.)  The Gervasutti Pillar at the Tour Ronde was climbed. (N.B. the Skyway Monte Bianco closed this week until 19th May inclusive.)
Conscrits Sector: the skiing starts at the glacier.  This morning the Domes de Miage and Mont Tondu were tracked. The Col des Glaciers was done yesterday, skiing down by the Dôme de Neige.
Plan Glacier Sector: skiing starts around 2000m on the approach to the hut.  The N face of the Domes was tracked and skied on Sunday, (the skiing started 50m below the summit due to a lack of snow at the top of the face.)

Couvercle Sector:  three choices for the approach to the hut, by the ladders, by the central couloir, (dry low down) or by the Pierre à Bérenger. Lots of avalanches have been seen in the area.  This morning, parties left for the Whymper Couloir and the col de Talèfre.

No information for the Albert 1er and Argentière sectors.  These huts are not staffed and the lifts are closed.

For Hikers: the S facing slopes below 2000m are mainly dry but above this there is plenty of snow.  On the N facing slopes the snow level is much lower with deep snow at 2000m.  Check the altitude of your proposed hike and adapt your equipment accordingly.  The mountain lakes remain snow covered.  The hiking season is only just starting, patience needed.

John Ashburner

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Monday, 15 May 2017 17:58

News has reached us that John Ashburner passed away on 5th May at Aintree Hospital, Liverpool, after a courageous 5-year battle with cancer of the larynx.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Report 13th May 2017

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Created: Saturday, 13 May 2017 14:18

Since the May 5th update, it has snowed at altitude together with winds from the S/SW.  The rain/snow limit was about 2500m. This morning, Saturday, the Chamonix Aiguilles are plastered with snow following last night’s precipitations, (without wind.) 
As stated in the last update, the hiking remains feasible up to 1900m for the N facing and 2000m for the S facing slopes.
Concerning ski touring, there has been activity in the Emosson area since the opening of the road up to the dam, e.g. Pointe de la Terrasse, Cheval Blanc.
The Couvercle, Conscrits, Grands Mulets, Requin, Albert 1er and Plan de l’Aiguille huts are open.  It is recommended to telephone in advance. See http://www.chamoniarde.com/?page_id=57 for the contact details.

Report 5 May 2017

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Created: Friday, 05 May 2017 20:48

Bad weather fronts are following one after another and dumping snow down to 2000 / 2200m, sometimes lower.
This morning, Friday, there was about 30cm of fresh snow at the Plan de l’Aiguille (2207m) and 70 to 80cms at the at Grands Mulets hut, (3051m.)
The windows of good weather are very short, making it difficult to find suitable alpine objectives.

Some routes though, like the Pointes Lachenal or the Cosmiques Arete, remain feasible.  

No news concerning the gullies, though the Chéré on the Triangle du Tacul looks possible.  The new snow has not been enough to compensate for the underlying dry conditions.

The normal route on the Tacul is not feasible for the moment due to the high avalanche risk.

For the moment, only the Aiguille du Midi, Montenvers and Skyway (Italy) lifts are running.  The approach to the other areas, for example; the Argentière sector or the Tour glacier, is on foot from the valley.  

With the regular snow falls, the upper part of the Valley Blanche is generally in good condition. However, some of the snow bridges are fragile and are masked by the recent snow, as are some of the crevasses. Care is needed.  The Col du Tacul was tracked this morning (Friday), with no further information about the descent by the Capucin glacier,

The Mont Blanc was done this morning by the Dôme N Ridge and by the Plateaus route. Despite all the new snow, the ice is never far away, especially on the N ridge.

The N face has been skied recently, no further information

Also, no information concerning Mont Buet. There is a good hour’s walking up the Berard valley before one can put on skis. 
The Emosson road opened this evening, Friday 5th May, giving skiers access to the tours starting from the dam.  

For hikers, conditions above 1800 / 2000m remain difficult.  It is essential to be well equipped, (good boots, crampons, poles etc,) and avoid travelling too “light”.   

Even by midday, the snow can still be frozen, presenting a real danger of sliding for the inexperienced or badly equipped.
For hikes below this altitude, there are no obvious problems.

The path maintenance workforce has started for the summer season, but it is still early days, so do not be surprised about the state of certain paths. The Merlet footbridge is in place and can be approached from Les Montquarts.  It is not advised to continue towards Bellachat. However, the Aiguillette des Houches is accessible via the Chailloux chalets.

During this interseasonal period, there a certain amount of ongoing forestry work, resulting in some footpaths being closed.  Please see: http://www.chamoniarde.com/?p=45 for more information.

Piolets d’Or 2017

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Created: Thursday, 04 May 2017 15:32

This year the Piolets d’Or has set up its base-camp in Grenoble and, in a new format, is taking place in two parts. 

At the April event the 9^th presentation of the Piolet d’Or Career Award was made to Jeff Lowe, the 8^th Honorary AC Member recipient of this award, and the 2016 route awards were announced.  These will be presented at the second 2017 Piolets d’Or event in Grenoble in November during the Recontrés Cine Montagne Film Festival.

2017 MACCF Grant Spring Recipients

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Created: Wednesday, 03 May 2017 19:05

Applications for the Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund grants closed on 1st March 2017. We have pleasure in detailing the successful applicants and wish them every success for their forthcoming expeditions.

Report 28th April 2017

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Created: Friday, 28 April 2017 19:19

For last few days it felt as if winter was back. First there was rain, then it snowed down to the valley base, and this together with strong winds at altitude.

The change in conditions means the avalanche risk above 2000m is now 3/5.  Regardless of the activity undertaken, one needs to be very cautious this weekend.

For several days, there has been little action in the mountains. Here is the latest information from the hut wardens
There was between 5 and 10cms of snow at the valley floor, about 50cms, very windblown at 2500/3000m and up to 80cms higher up.
Drifting has affected some areas and certain slopes appear to be “loaded”.  The tracks to the routes have disappeared.

The Lognan and Gd Montets lifts, as well as the Argentière hut, will close after May 1^st.  
Concerning the Valley Blanche, the “Z” path has been dismantled and only the crest of the ridge remains equipped.  Caution is needed, especially at the level of the “Salle à Manger”, where the snow bridges, already fragile, are masked by the new snow.  It is still necessary to walk a little to reach Montenvers.
For hikers and “trailers” there should not be any problems below about 1300/1500m. For example, the Petits Balcons N and S, the Floria and the Chapeau chalet are feasible. The Chailloux chalets, the Loriaz hut, the Lac Vert and the Prarion, even if a bit higher, are also accessible.

Above this, the conditions are tricky, with a real risk of sliding or falling.  Avoid travelling to “light” and modify your plans and equipment to meet the prevailing conditions. 

Report 22nd April 2017

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Created: Sunday, 23 April 2017 09:04

Some updates for the massive:

No major changes for the hikers. The altitude limit for safe walking remains at 2000m, (S facing) and 1800m (N facing). It will take several weeks before the higher trails are in condition, for example to the lakes, (still under snow) and the Grand Balcons, N&S.  
At altitude, the recent wind and low temperatures have hardened the snow and caused drifting in places.  Caution is advised.

  
- Albert 1er Sector: 
The best approach is by the moraine, skiing starting/finishing at the level of the water intake.  The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche are being done. The Table Couloir has a rocky section low down and is being climbed on foot. The 3 cols, the Forbes Arete and the Migot Spur are in condition.  The party on the Migot descended by the Forbes Arete, but the normal descent route on the Chardonnet looks OK.  

- Argentière Sector: 
Ski touring remains popular in this area, but conditions are slowly deteriorating, notably for the Passon, where the moraine presents problems. Crampons/ice axe and ski crampons are necessary for certain routes.  The Y couloir has been done, but the bergschrund is awkward.
The snow is thinning on the Courtes NE and the Col des Cristaux.
The lower part of the Lagarde Gully is no longer in condition and parties have turned back.
The Vivagel and Bettembourg/Charlet gullies have been climbed recently, albeit proving more difficult than normal.
Mont Dolent has been climbed from La Fouly by the Gallet ridge and the normal route, (about 30mins of walking).  

- Couvercle/Mer de Glace Sector:
The Y Couloir on the Verte was done on 21st April.  Conditions OK, but with some deep snow in the gully.  Exit by the left branch on granular snow, then hard neve on the ridge. In descent, the Whymper has plenty of snow, though take care near the top as the ice is not far away.
Good track on the Talèfre glacier, crampons needed to descend the “central” couloir.  Approach by the Egralets is also possible.
The normal routes on the Droites and Courtes are in condition. Nobody has been to the Pointe Isabelle for the moment.  Aiguille de Talèfre N face is very dry.

- Requin/Torino/Cosmiques:
The Valley Blanche is still being done by the classic route, as well as by the Little and Middle, (true VB), Envers.  Conditions OK as far as the Requin hut, then care needed, with weak snow bridges crossing Salle à Manger and 30 mins walking to reach the ice caves below Montenvers. The Valley Noire, (Italian side), is still doable.  

Near the Torino; the Dent du Géant, Rochefort Arete, Aiguilles Marbrées, Entreves and Toule are being done.  On the Tour Ronde some parties have climbed the SE Ridge, and the Rebuffat and Gervasutti gullies.  The N face is dry but feasible. Rock climbing on the Tacul satellites is also possible.
The normal route on the Grandes Jorasses has been done recently in reasonable conditions.

Near the Cosmiques; the Laurence ridge, the Cosmiques ridge and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal, (some ice) are being done.  
Concerning the gullies, most of the activity is on the Chéré and the Contamine-Mazeaud.  The Gabarrou-Albinoni and Pellissier are also being climbed, albeit in very dry conditions, (set of Friends advisable.)

The 3 Monts is tracked, no further information, other than there are sections of bare ice, making it unsuitable for a “light” ascent.  Col du Plan gully, Eugster Diagonal and Mallory-Porter have been climbed recently in generally good conditions.

- Grands Mulets:
Mont Blanc is being climbed either by the Plateaux or N ridge of the Dôme. There are still passages of ice on the N ridge, requiring good equipment and technical ability. The approach from the Plan de l’Aiguille to the hut is OK.  The descent from the summit by the N face no longer looks feasible due to ice.
For those tempted to start from the Tunnel entrance, (roadhead), there is at least 600m height gain, then hard neve, requiring crampons rather than skis with ski crampons, to reach the Gare des Glaciers.

- Conscrits:
No major changes, it is a on foot as far as the glacier then good conditions for the rest of the approach to the hut. The Mont Tondu, Bérangère, Dômes de Miage traverse are being done. Still some ice on the Domes traverse. It is possible to ski down the Armancette until about 1900m. The Mettrier Ridge is very dry.  The Bionnassay ridge is tracked, no further information.

 
In the Aiguilles Rouges; the Flégère lifts are closed and the Planpraz lift closes at 13h on Sunday, 23rd April.
Mont Buet and the cols in this area remain accessible, with about 45mins of carrying your skis in the Berard valley.

With the good weather, there will certainly be a lot of activity this weekend. The Chamoniarde ( http://www.chamoniarde.com/?page_id=1857&lang=en ), looks forward to receiving your reports.