Report 9th June 2021

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Created: Thursday, 10 June 2021 14:31

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 09/06/2021

After some good weather last week, followed by a few days of instability, it looks like summer is finally starting tomorrow, (Thursday.) The ski season is giving way to alpinism.

However, there are still significant quantities of snow  on the approaches, (glaciers), the slopes and the ridges, (cornices)  There is a risk of snow sluffs, especially as it warms up.

The rocks in the high mountains still have snow on the ledges and ice in the cracks.  

Also there is the issue of re-freezing, which is a problem typical for this time of the year, (short nights and often the need for very early starts.)

On needs to take account of all these factors when choosing a route, and to be flexible. Skis or snowshoes remain useful for certain approaches.

Ski touring season has probably come to an end.  It remains possible at the Emosson dam sector or starting from the Aig du Midi, (upper part of the Valley Blanche, there and back to col d'Entrèves etc).

Mont Blanc is still feasible on skis by the Trois Monts or  Grands Mulets (see below for details).

The significant amounts of snow still limit hiking to below 2000/2200m, depending on the sector and orientation. Above this, one needs to be properly equipped, (good footwear, gaiters, poles, crampons.)  

More information on recommended hikes is here.

People are starting to do the Tour du Mont Blanc.  This is two weeks later than in recent years, partly due to Covid but mainly due to the large amount of snow. All the “high” parts are completely under snow, (not just snow in patches.)  This means the path markings are buried, so knowing how to use a map is necessary. Walking in snow makes the stages tougher than usual, especially if a good track has not yet been formed  Some of the sections are exposed, where a slide could have serious consequences.  For these reasons, the TMB is only suitable for people with mountain experience and equipment, (good footwear, gaiters, poles, crampons.)

Some information by sector :

Tour Sector

The lifts open this weekend.

The approach to the hut, (open since 4/06) by the summer path, as usual for this time of the year, has snow and is exposed in places.  It is suitable only for alpinists for the moment. When approaching by the moraine, the snow starts near the junction with the summer path at around 2400 m.

The classics in this area have been tracked on foot, e.g. Table Couloir and normal route on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche. The Migot has been done several times over the last few weeks and when there has been a good freeze. There are no problems for the descent by the normal route. Due to the large amount of snow, the Forbes ridge has not yet been done.

Argentière Sector

Skis (starting below the Lognan at about 1660/1700m) or snowshoes are useful in this sector which remains quiet.  The hut opens on 19th June.

There is little information for this sector.

The classic cols should be feasible with skis. (Tour Noir, Argentière) as well as the Aiguille d'Argentière by the Glacier du Milieu.

It should be possible to ascend the Y couloir, the Couturier couloir and the Courtes NE.  No information concerning the more technical, mixed routes.

The rock is gradually drying and should soon be ready for climbing soon!

Charpoua Sector

There is still a lot of snow above the ladders to reach the hut which should open on 24th June. The rock is not yet dry.

A party climbed  Naia on 1/06 in good conditions, but these have likely changed since then. No info for the Y couloir.

Talèfre Sector

There is still snow in the central couloir and at the Pierre à Bérenger. The approach to the hut, which is closed all summer due to works,  is by the Egralets ladders, (probably still snow higher up.)

The  Whymper couloir should be feasible, given a good freeze, (not always possible to judge with the midnight start needed in order to descend before midday!) Snowshoes useful for the approach.

A good freeze and snowshoes are also needed for the snow routes, (Pointe Isabelle, Courtes normal route) or easy mixed (Droites normal route) in this sector.

As each year, one needs to be cunning and choose the right moment to do the “Grande Courses” in this sector, (e.g. Jardin Ridge)  

Leschaux Sector

The hut opens 18/06.

No information for this sector.  SW couloir of the Eboulement probably. As in other sectors, the rock is gradually coming into condition.

Envers des Aiguilles/ Requin Sector

The is a lot of snow on the approach to the Envers hut, (due to open 26/06). It is probably possible to rock climb in the lower sectors.

The Requin hut opens 19/06. It seems to be finished for the Brèche Puiseux. No information for the rock routes yet.

Helbronner Sector

The classic routes are tracked on foot and in good condition, e.g. Marbrées traverse, Aiguille d'Entrèves traverse, Tour Ronde (normal route, Gervasutti couloir, N face). Take care to descend the normal route on the Tour Ronde early.

Dent du Géant is feasible but in “winter” condition.  There is  snow with a good track to reach the Salle à Manger, (a positive), then some verglas/snow/ice on the rocks. The Rochefort Arete is not yet tracked and looks to be challenging. There are large cornices which oblige one to pass on the N side, which is often icy.  (The snow has either not stuck or was blown off. )  

The Kuffner will be in condition once the snow stabilises, (and with a good freeze.)  Likewise, for the Aiguilles du Diable, once the snow goes from the rocks.  The bergschrunds look to be well filled in. 

The snow is gradually going from the satellites.  More info soon.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

The routes near to the lift are tracked on foot.

Good conditions for the Cosmiques ridge.

Several parties turned back last week at the abseil on Pointes Lachenal traverse, (suspicious noises and stone fall.)   The mixed section below the west summit is in good condition. Possible to do the two summits, there and back.

The Contamine-Negri  is still in good condition, (mixed low down, then all on snow, abseil points in place).  There have been some parties on the Contamine-Grisolle, where conditions are thin but OK.  The Chéré couloir remains dry low down.

Some parties did the Vent du Dragon last weekend, (P1+P2 OK, P3 a bit dry, P4 thin but protectable.)  Conditions here could changequickly.

The Gervasutti Coulior on the Tacul  was skied early morning 08/06 in spring snow, with an abseil to cross the bergschrund.  Here also, conditions could quickly change.

There has been regular activity on the Trois Monts. A short ice step remains at the level of the Tacul bergschrund, crampons needed. Nothing special thereafter, the exit is by the shoulder. The traverse line is fairly high up under the lower serac of the Maudit face.  There is an easy ramp on the left to overcome the middle serac.  A good track then leads to the Mont Maudit col.  The bergschrund is crossed on the far right, which avoids some friable ice.   There are a few metres of ice after the col.  Be aware of some treacherous, lengthways crevasses on the traverse to the Brenva col.  The Mur de la Côte alternates between hard snow and ice.  Again, there are some treacherous crevasses between the Rochers Rouges and the Rochers des Mulets.

Rock climbing is starting on the S face of the Lachenal, which is drying quickly though still some ice in the cracks. Things are a bit more complicated for Cosmiques Spur and the Aig du Midi S face, (snow on the ledges and on the summit ridge. )

The  Midi Plan ridge is coming into condition. There is still a lot of snow, especially on the thin section after the Rognon (a party turned back recently.)

Plan de l'Aiguille Sector

The Mallory-Porter and Eugster Diagonal were popular last week in ascent and remain feasible, given a good freeze and sleeping at the Plan. The Frendo has not been done yet.  

The rocks have a lot of snow remaining in this sector.

Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets

Still good skiing conditions !

From the tunnel, the skiing starts at about 2000m. There is plenty of snow on the approach from the Plan de l'Aiguille, even if you have to bypass the moraine either low down, (preferable) or high up.  

The Jonction high up is OK, (especially in descent which avoids putting the skins back on,)  even if there is some walking at the Jonction proper.

The good news is that the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter was tracked on Wednesday morning. 15cm of snow now covers the previously icy section.  One ice axe suffices, (two to be extra cautious.)

The N face remains in good condition, (see photo.)

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

The Bellevue cable car and the TMB as far as Bellevue opens this weekend.  The TMB up to the  Nid d’Aigle is foreseen for the end of the month.

For the Nid d'Aigle, the approach by the chalets de l'Are is recommended.

Conditions are good for the start of the season; all on snow and a track which will improve with use.

Miage/Bionnassay Sector

The  Plan Glacier and Durier huts open on the 12^th June.  Skis or snowshoes are still useful in this sector.  

It is possible to use skis at around 1700m above Miage and after the Mauvais Pas.

The Mettrier ridge was done on 06/06, in good conditions.

The Dômes de Miage is in good condition and is popular on ski or on foot  both as a traverse or there and back, (no ice and the ridge is broad.)

For the ski descent of the Armancette, the walking starts at around 2100m above the lake.

Mont Tondu and the Aiguille de la Bérangère, (there and back) have also been done.  

Mont Blanc S side

The Monzino hut, (crampons useful for the approach,) opens on 11/6, the Gonella on 12/06.  More information soon.

Aiguilles Rouges

The lifts open this weekend.  As one can see on the webcam de l'Index, there is a lot of snow remaining.  It is possible to find some snow free rock routes, but crampons and ice axes will be needed for the approach and descent.

Alpine Club Lectures Set to Return in September

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Created: Wednesday, 02 June 2021 16:07

Report 31 May 2021

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Created: Tuesday, 01 June 2021 10:18

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS  31/05/2021

Some information after a weekend where activity returned to the high mountain, following a reasonably long spell of good weather.  In general, there is a lot of snow, in the process of transforming, with re-freezing, the slopes progressively purging, and the glaciers  and bergschrunds well filled in. Skis or snowshoes still prove useful for moving about high up, except in the popular areas near the Aig du Midi or Helbronner. The season of the “Grand Courses” is starting, as the snow cover settles and given a good re-freezing.

Ski touring remains possible in the Emosson dam sector.  The road up to the dam is open, where the skiing starts. For the Berard valley, the skiing starts at the large flat area below the hut at around 1700m, (good snow cover above this.)

Le Tour Sector : generally good conditions.  The hut opens on Friday 4^th June. The classics of the area are tracked, (Aiguille du Tour, Migot Spur Migot on the Chardonnet etc). The descent by the Passon is no longer attractive.

Argentière Sector: The skiing starts at around 1400m on the Pierre à Ric.  The hut is closed until 19^th June.  There is not much info for this sector other than the Aig d'Argentière by the glacier du Milieu and the Couturier Couloir on the Verte (ice at the bend and on the dome) have been done.  The  NE des Courtes looks to have plenty of snow.  

Talèfre Sector:  The hut approach by the central gully has deteriorated. Some parties have gone via the Egralets ladders. The Whymper couloir was done on 27th May, with other parties doing it the day after.  The bergschrund goes on the true left, (right looking up).  Some ice in the secondary couloir otherwise nothing special. Skis or snowshoes needed for the approach.  Some parties have skied in the direction of the Pointe Isabelle and the col des Droites.  

Plan/Aiguille du Midi Sector :  The Plan and Cosmiques huts are open. The col du Plan gully has been climbed, the bergschrund is well filled in.  After a lot of ski activity last week, the Mallory Porter should be feasible in ascent.  It is too early for the Midi-Plan ridge, but this should quickly change given the current temperatures.

It is possible to approach on foot for the routes near to the Midi station.  The Laurence ridge, Cosmiques ridge (a lot of snow which in some place makes it easier, but elsewhere requires alternatives and short roping making the route overall more difficult,) Pointes Lachenal traverse are all tracked.  The Midi S face is being climbed but there is still snow on the ledges.

The traverse of Valley Blanche is well filled in.  Skis or snowshoes remain useful.  The Valley Blanche was skied at the weekend The crevasses are covered higher up and it is spring snow. Crevasses are starting to appear at the Salle à Manger where a rope recommended.  The descent by the Valley Noire is not recommended because, as is usual this time of the year, there is a lot of frozen avalanche debris.

The Trois Monts was done on Monday morning. On the normal route on the Tacul, there is a short, steep  section of ice low down and a recent serac fall also low down, exit by the shoulder.  For Mont Maudit, the lower part of the face is also not in good condition but goes OK, the bergschrund below the col is OK, no ice.   There may be some ice on the traverse to the Brenva col.  Hard snow on the Mur de la Côte.  

The Chéré Gully is in average condition, (brittle ice.)  The Contamine Negri is in good condition, (some mixed low down, then all on snow.) The traverse from the summit of the Triangle to regain the normal route looks to be OK. 

The Jager Couloir was done on 30/05. The Gervasutti couloir has been skied but take care, the heat will quickly change conditions.  

Some of the Pointes Lachenal S face gullies have been climbed. The gullies on the E face of the Tacul (Modica Noury, Gabarrou-Albinoni) look to be fairly dry.  A part turned back on the Supercouloir, (brittle ice).

Helbronner Sector :  the Marbrées and Aiguille d'Entrèves traverses and the Dent du Géant have been done, approach on foot.  There has been activity on the Tour Ronde: the normal route by the Freshfield col , the N face, (all snow except for the central gully) and the Gervasutti couloir, (bergschrund OK).   It is too early for the Kuffner.

Mont Blanc by the Grands-Mulets : little change since the last report. The amount of ski carrying is increasing, 1h30 from the tunnel. The snow is going from the moraines when starting from the Plan de l'Aiguille.  The Jonction passes OK.  The N Face of the Dôme du Goûter is tracked parallel to the ridge, (hard snow, still some ice, 2 bergschrunds that need a rope,)  The classic N face was skied at the weekend, (hard snow high up then cold and changeable).  At the plateaux it is more like spring snow, (it does not soften before midday).   

Mont Blanc by the Goûter : The Tête Rousse hut opened on Monday night and the Gouter on Tuesday.  The TMB and the Bellevue are closed.   There is a lot of snow.  It is recommended to go by the Are Chalets and the Nid d'Aigle (take care on the slopes below the equipped section.)  The Goûter couloir is filled with snow and for a change it is snow slides, not stone fall that could cause problems.  Try and pass early in the day, both in ascent and descent.  It is already tracked, and the path will improve with use.  

Aiguille de Bionnassay : The NW  face from Tête Rousse (there and back,) from the  Durier and the Mettrier ridge were done this weekend. The N face of the Dômes has good snow cover and has been skied, (the skiing starts about 2200m, above Miage.)   No recent information for the Dômes de Miage travers, which should be in condition, the skiing starts above the Mauvais Pas.

Report 26 May 2021

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Created: Thursday, 27 May 2021 07:54

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 26/05/2021

There has been little recent information  on conditions in the high mountain.  It is a case of “go and see” and keeping one’s options open. Chamoniarde is awaiting your feedback!

Skis and snowshoes are currently essential for moving around in the high mountain.

The Aiguille du Midi and Skyway cable cars are open. The Montenvers train will open on Saturday 29^th May, (the lift down to the ice cave opens on 5^th June.)  Reservations necessary !

The following huts are open: Grands-Mulets, Cosmiques, Torino (from Thursday 27th). Only the winter rooms are open in the other huts. (There is a risk of overcrowding, especially at the Argentière).

Due to the impressive amount of snow at the Emosson dam sector, ski touring is still possible there.  The same is true for the Aiguilles Rouges (Bérard valley), though some ski carrying is necessary.  

Likewise, some ski carrying is needed on the approach to the Albert 1er hut by the moraine and on the lower part of the Pierre à Ric to access the Argentière sector.

The only sector with regular activity is the Aiguille du Midi, thanks to the cable car. All the main, steep skiing  routes on the N and W faces are being done.  There is even a risk of overcrowding.  At this time of the year conditions can change drastically from one day to the next, not least due to the passage of other skiers and the strong May/June sun.  Keep something in reserve when nearing your level.  

There and back to the Col d'Entrèves or into the Maudite Cwm are good ideas for an outing at altitude, to make a few turns and get the red blood cells working.

The ladder down to the Toula glacier is closed and its use forbidden.

The Cosmiques ridge, Pointe Lachenal there and back (or even the traverse,) and the Laurence ridge are feasible. As has often been the case in recent years, the Tacul Triangle looks very bare, (grey ice.) Likewise, the descent by the Tacul normal route does not look inviting. Once the snow cover stabilises it should be OK.  No information on the N face of the Maudit.

The approach to the Grands Mulets hut from the Plan de l'Aiguille was re-traced on Tuesday 25^th May.   On Wednesday, there was an attempt on Mont Blanc (probably ended at the Vallot due to the wind)  by the plateaus. (It looks like a serac fall has cut across the track at the level of the little Plateau).  The N ridge of the Dôme is not tracked and does not look good, (still with ice and heavily windblown snow).  From the tunnel, the skiing starts at the old cable car station.

For anyone thinking of doing Mont Blanc by the Goûter, expect winter conditions with a lot of snow. The snow starts at the Bellevue and just above the Are chalets.  The approach to the Tête Rousse hut remains complicated, (in effect an alpine route). The huts plan to open on the 1st June (Tête Rousse) and 2^nd June (Goûter).

There has been no change in the options for hikers. Generally, it is necessary to remain below 2000m.  Check this list of suggestions.

Report 15 May 2021

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Created: Friday, 14 May 2021 19:45

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 14 MAY2021

Unreliable weather at the moment, (wind, rain, snow, some sunny spells etc.)

Very little has changed since the last update, (7th May).  The weather windows have been too short to allow for much activity in the high mountain and there has been little improvement with the hiking trails (see ici).

The road up to the Emosson dam opened on Thursday the 13th, giving ski tourers access to this sector, if the weather allows.   Elsewhere , despite the low temperatures , the amount of ski carrying necessary is gradually increasing.

The good news is the Aig du Midi cable car opens on 19th May, (must have a reservation, use this link). The Park Merlet also opens on the 19th, (reservation needed at the weekends and bank holidays)

Consult the Chamoniarde site for up-to-date information on the hut openings (ici).

Everest: by 'Those Who Were There' Exhibition Opens

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Created: Friday, 14 May 2021 18:00

2021 marks the centenary of the first expedition to Mount Everest. To commemorate the occasion, The Alpine Club is hosting a landmark exhibition entitled ‘Everest: By Those Who Were There’ at its premises of 55 Charlotte Road, Shoreditch, EC2A 3QF.

 

The exhibition uses the words of expedition members from 1921, 1922 and 1924 to explore the mountain as a symbol of adventure and a site of significant tragedy. As well as diary entries and hand-written notes, visitors can explore the art works and photography produced on the expeditions, as well as the clothing and equipment that was first used to climb the mountain.

 

Today every detail of Everest, from its precise dimensions to the exact wind speed on its summit, can be accessed at the click of a button. But for the men of these early expeditions, it was an entirely different prospect. In 1921, even its exact location was uncertain and the first expedition undertook a 200-mile trek across Tibet as they, in the words of George Mallory, ‘walked off the map’ in search of it. The achievements of these expeditions, climbing as high as 8,572m in 1924, were accomplished with rudimentary equipment and no concrete understanding of the effects that such extreme altitudes would have on the human body.

 

Renowned mountaineer, former Alpine Club president and current Head of Exhibitions John Porter said: ‘These men lived in the true age of exploration. Driven by the need to escape the horrors of the Great War and a desire to see Britain first atop the “third pole”, they achieved the remarkable. By using their own records and possessions we hope to give visitors a true sense of the reality of the time and the incredible bravery it took for men like Mallory and Irvine to attempt the summit.’

 

 

^{The Expedition Party of 1921 -
(Back, L-R) Alexander FR Wollaston, Col. Charles K, Howard-Bury, Alexander M Heron, Harold A Raeburn
(Front, L-R) George Leigh Mallory, E Oliver Wheeler, Guy H Bullock, Major Henry T Morshead}

^{Base Camp, 1922 - Photo by George Finch}

 

‘Everest: By Those Who Were There’ opens to the public from the 21 June and can be visited on Tuesdays and Wednesdays between the hours of 12:00 and 17:00 until October 16, with a closure for the month of August and the 27/28 July. Please email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to book in advance of your visit. If you do not book in advance, we are sadly unable to guarantee entry. If you would like to visit at a time and date outside of our listed opening hours, please don't hesitate to get in touch and we will do our best to facilitate a visit.

 

Items on display include: a photograph taken on Everest by Howard Somervell in 1924 which was, at the time, the highest photograph ever taken; watercolour paintings of Everest; and Sandy Irvine’s ice axe, lost on Everest during his fateful summit attempt with Mallory in 1924, and discovered in 1933.

 

In addition to the exhibition itself, the Alpine Club Library has also produced an accompanying catalogue, laying out the aims, logistics and accomplishments of the three 1920s expeditions. Complete with high quality reproductions of expedition photography, maps and art work, this commemorative publication is sure to become a collector's item for any Everest or mountaineering enthusiast and we recommend purchasing early to avoid disappointment. Copies will be available at the exhibition itself and can also be purchased via the dedicated catalogue page.

 

 

The club is indebted to numerous volunteers for their incredible effort in assembling the exhibition, and in particular to our Honorary Librarian, Barbara Grigor-Taylor, for her helming of this project. Almost all of the exhibits on display have been drawn from the Alpine Club Library's collections and the work of our dedicated volunteers cannot be overstated.

 

We hope that both club members and the wider public will take advantage of this incredible opportunity to see so many iconic facets of climbing history on display together for the first time.

 

 

 

Everest, by 'Those Who Were There' 1921, 1922, 1924

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Created: Friday, 14 May 2021 18:00

Everest, by 'Those Who Were There' 1921, 1922, 1924

Everest: by 'Those Who Were There' - Exhibition Catalogue

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Created: Thursday, 13 May 2021 11:41

Foundation Launched in Memory of Martin Moran

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Created: Wednesday, 12 May 2021 06:29

A charitable foundation supporting young people from diverse backgrounds to pursue adventure in the mountains has been established in memory of British climbing legend, Martin Moran.

Report 7th May 2021

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Created: Friday, 07 May 2021 13:26

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 7 MAY 2021

A quick update for the coming weekend.

There has been a lot of rain this week with snow and wind at altitude, especially on Thursday and Friday. There will be more than 60cms of fresh snow above 2000m. It is difficult to estimate the effects of the wind high up.  (There is a photo from Grand Mulets showing one side of the hut completely plastered the other side stripped bare.)

The avalanche risk is no longer being reported but expect it to be “high” this weekend.

On top of this, the forecast for the weekend is not encouraging, (rise in temperatures, wind, and the foehn on Sunday.)

Therefore, care is needed in choosing an outing. For those recently restricted by the 10km rule, avoid the temptation to “rush in”. For the others, the high mountain is also not in condition!  The old local saying: "en Mai ne fait pas ce qu'il te plait" rings true.   (In May you can only do what May allows you to do)

The reality is we are between two seasons.  Skiers need to go high and, because the lifts remain shut, it is difficult to complete tours in a day.  

Due to the snow, hiking is limited to below 1700-1900m, depending upon the aspect, (see the last report).

Rock climbing and biking remains as popular as ever in the valley.

Ski Touring :

There is a need to carry the skis a bit further in the Berard valley.

There has been little change in the Le Tour sector. The approach to the Albert 1er is either by the moraine, ski carrying as far as the EDF water intake, or via the Col de Passon.

From Argentiere, it is still possible to start skiing almost from the foot of the Pierre à Ric.  However, it is in poor condition with large moguls and some sections of walking: "only for good skiers".  The Argentière hut should be open on Saturday 8th May until the 16th May.  Conditions for the classic routes in the area will have improved with all the snow over the last two weeks but there is currently an avalanche risk.  

For the Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets, (but be aware of the poor weather at altitude foreseen for the weekend,) it is possible to start skiing just above the old cable car station. Extra care is needed on the traverse between the upper station and the glacier. The route has not changed much at the level of the Jonction.  The last ascent on 3rd May went by the Plateaux, (the N ridge is still not tracked this season and even though it now has snow, the upper slopes will have a high avalanche risk.)  The latest information is that there is a technical section between the first and second “Bosses” near the level of the crevasse, which can be avoided on the left.  

For the  Dômes de Miage sector, the skiing starts at the exit of the forest at the level of Nant du Tour. Care is needed near the Mauvais Pas and on the final slope below the hut.  The upper part of the Armancette glacier is likely to be heavily loaded with snow!

If you enjoy Swiss French humour, see the French version of this report for comments from the warden of the Pannossière hut, Grand Combin, on the current conditions there, (which are similar to the Mont Blanc massive).

Covid-19 and Meets

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Created: Wednesday, 05 May 2021 10:08

AC Library will Reopen on May 18th

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Created: Thursday, 29 April 2021 07:59

Report 27 April 2021

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Created: Wednesday, 28 April 2021 08:34

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 27 April 2021

Some information following a sunny weekend even if the weather is now due to deteriorate.  

In general, the snow cover at altitude is good, despite the warm period having removed the snow lower down.  The faces remain dryish. 

Bérard Valley:  Skiing still starts at the level of the buvette, but some rocks are appearing along the side of the torrent.  Above this it is spring snow.

Skis can be used not far from the road  for the climb up to the col de l'Encrenaz from the south.

Tour Sector: the approach to the Albert 1^er hut is by the moraine or via the col du Passon from Argentière. The Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche (N face tracked), Petite Fourche are popular. All the classic cols are passable.  The normal route on the Chardonnet was skied on Sunday, 25th. On the descent to le Tour, the skiing ends at the bridge, (keep to the true left bank low down.)  The skiing is not great nearer the valley due to avalanche debris and heavy snow.  The descent from the Passon, other than if returning from a route,  is no longer worth it.  

Skiing conditions are good on the Swiss side, Trient/Saleina/ A Neuve.

Argentière Sector : it is still possible to ski from the start of the Pierre à Ric. Nothing of note for the glacier and the approach to the hut, (it was crowded last weekend, the stove is out of action, take a sleeping bag.)  The cols du Chardonnet, du Tour Noir and Argentière are skiable. The big N faces remain dry. The Couturier has been tracked in ascent, no further information. There have been some parties on the Lagarde Couloir (Droites), a long and technical route would should not be underestimated, (see  Facebook page PGHM de Chamonix). Lots of ski tracks on the NE face of the Courtes,  less on  the Col des Cristaux and the Pointe Eales.  For the Aiguille d'Argentière:  Glacier du Milieu is OK with no problems at the bergschrund and the narrows.  The Y couloir is tracked in ascent, lots of ski tracks in the Barbey.

Mer de Glace Sector : Access is still from Les Bois. The passage by the Mottets is chaotic.  It is better to go via the  Montenvers ladders even if this does involve an extra height gain. Skiing still starts at the base of the ladders even if the Mer de Glace is already lacking snow.

Aiguille Verte : Y couloir was done on Saturday 24 (see route book).  The Whymper couloir is also in condition, the bergschrund passable on the true right, (left looking up). The approach to the Talèfre sector by the central gully is deteriorating, (skis off in one place.)

Valley Blanche/Noire, Brèche Puiseux are still feasible. A rope is recommended for the Salle à Manger.

Mallory-Porter : some ice on the traverse below the Aig du Midi ridge, soft snow lower down.  The Eugster direct is too dry, not recommended. The ski descent of the Cosmiques couloir is OK.

There is no information for the gullies in this sector.

Glacier des Nantillons  was skied in good conditions.

Mont Blanc by ski via the Grands Mulets : The skiing still starts at the level of the old station.  To cross the Jonction,  take the lower track, (safer than the higher path which is threatened by frequent serac falls.)  The Plateaux is in good condition.  There is ice below the Vallot, ( there is a track which avoids going straight up to the hut with crampons.)  Fingers crossed that the snow promised at altitude for this week will improve conditions on the Dôme N ridge and the N face of Mont. The descent by the true left bank of the Bossons glacier is no longer feasible.

There is still some skiing in the Trappier couloir sector with the snow ending around 1600m for the moment.  

Dômes de Miage / Bionnassay sector:  As a reminder, the Tré la Tête hostel is  open. The appoach to the  Conscrit hut by the Mauvais Pas is OK with crampons. In general, the traverse of the Dômes de Miage is in good condition.

The Mettrier ridge is being done regularly, (take gaz and a down jacket if planning to sleep at the  Plan Glacier). The traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay was also tracked last weekend, descent by the Plateaux.

Notre Dame de la Gorge : skiing now starts at the flat area halfway between Nant Borrant and the Balme. Good spring conditions higher up, for example: the col des Chasseurs and the Enclave and Mont Tondu sectors.

In Brief:

The Via Ferrata de Curalla has been opened on 24th April.
Hiking possibilities remain restricted to below 1700m ( facing north) and 1900m (facing south) due to the snow. The via cordas at Mottets and the Via Damou are popular, (cf route book)

Gerald Franklin

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Tuesday, 27 April 2021 20:03

We have recently learned of the death of our Associate member Gerald Franklin

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Report 20 April 2021

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Created: Wednesday, 21 April 2021 07:13

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 20 AVRIL 2021

A quick update, given that the general situation has not changed much since the bulletin of 13th April
Last week’s weather was fairly atypical, being mainly cold and with some snowfall, which allowed for some nice skiing, but also a cloud cover that was difficult to predict.  

The principal activity is still ski touring. When temperatures allow, valley crag climbing is popular. There is still too much snow on most of the hiking trails. However, the paths along the floor of the valley or the small hikes up to 1500m, (north facing), or 1800m, (south facing), are feasible.

Conditions remain good for ski touring in the Bérard valley, (with a short section of carrying just up to the buvette).

The approach to the Albert 1er hut by the moraine is now possible, (the slopes overlooking the path are dry, only the gully still has snow.) Skiing starts at the level of the EDF water intake. For the descent from the Passon, the skiing ends at the level of the Bisme bridge, (10 mins walking from the carpark.) 

It is still possible to put on skis at the start of the Pierre à Ric. All the classic routes are tracked (Col du Passon, Col du Chardonnet, Aiguille d'Argentière by the Glacier du Milieu, Col du Tour Noir, etc.)  Also, activity at Barbey, Y Couloir, Lagarde couloir, Col des Cristaux and the Courtes NNE (skied on good snow, NNE fairly dry high up as has often been the case in recent years.) 

No change for the approach to the Mer de Glace/Talèfre sector, other than the 4x4 track from Planards to the Mottets/Caillet/Les Bois crossroads is closed by municipal order until 24th May because of work being done on the Montenvers railway.   It is, therefore, necessary to start from Les Bois, which in any case is the better option, (unless you have an electric mountain bike!)

Tracks on the Mallory Porter, no further information.  

Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets : skiing starts at the level of the old cable car station.  There is a difficult section between the Glaciers station and the glacier.  The Jonction is OK.  It is still icy below the Vallot.  The N face remains unadvisable, the Corridoris very awkward, (rock hard ice, recommended to downclimb.) The possibility to descend by the true left bank of the Bossons glacier is coming to an end,  (lack of snow in the gully above the Plateau des Pyramides).

Activity continues at the Trappier couloir, Pointe Inférieure Tricot, Armancette cwm and the Dômes de Miage.

Enjoy the current situation and do not hesitate to inform Chamoniarde of the conditions you experienced.

Peter Robson

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Tuesday, 20 April 2021 15:12

We have recently learned of the death of Peter Robson who had been a member since 1971.

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'Something the Artist Wishes to Say' - Article Extract

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Created: Wednesday, 14 April 2021 09:09

'Something the Artist Wishes to Say' - Article Extract

Theodore "Howard" Somervell lived a life full of remarkable achievements. He was a member of the 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions, an Alpine Club president and an accomplished surgeon who served on the frontlines at the Somme in 1916 and as a missionary in India for much of his later life. He was the recipient of both an OBE and an Olympic Gold Medal. But he was also a prolific artist, drawing and painting throughout his life - through war, exploration and service. He was one of the first artists to apply cubism to his depictions of mountain landscapes and his works documented many of the most famous Himalayan peaks.

To mark the anniversary of his birth in 1890, we would like to share an extract from David Seddon's profile of Somervell as an artist from the 2005 Alpine Journal.

'Something the Artist Wishes to Say'
T H Somervell 1890-1975

Theodore Howard Somervell has a record of achievement extending beyond his mountaineering exploits that has hitherto been only partly appreciated. First and foremost, he was a family man and a man of profound Christian belief who devoted his professional life to the health of the people of southern India. In 1922 and 1924 he climbed high on Everest without supplementary oxygen. He was President of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club (1954-56) and President of the Alpine Club (1962-65). He was a musician and an author, and as recent exhibitions and picture cards testify, he was also an accomplished artist. Yet even those aware of Somervell's output think of him as a painter of only Himalayan scenes.

Works
Somervell was encouraged to sketch by his father, William Henry Somervell (1860-1934), a competent watercolourist and a collector of modern art. A studio photograph exists of Howard, aged six or seven, with paint tray in hand. As a boy he was soon painting local scenes in Kendal and as an undergraduate exhibited at the Cambridge Drawing Society (Albemarle Street, watercolour) in 1910. In 1911 Somervell and fellow students also organised a 'spoof' art show of the avant garde artists then in vogue.

Somervell painted many hundreds if not thousands of paintings. His family describe him as a compulsive sketcher and painter. He would just sit down and in 20 minutes or so complete a simple sketch or watercolour. Of some 540 titles that I have been able to identify, 201 are of the Himalaya or Tibet. Of these, 125 date or relate to the 1922 or 1924 expeditions although there are certainly another 30 or so, exhibited at the Redfem Gallery in 1926, that I have been unable to trace. He seems to have been more active in 1922 than in 1924, with upwards of 80 paintings from late March to late July 1922, perhaps his most prolific period.

Of the rest, there are 54 paintings of India, 86 of the Alps and other mountain ranges, 86 of the Lake District, 23 of Scotland and Wales, and others from all over the world. These figures can only be a guide to his total output. In retirement, he continued to paint and was, like his father, invited to join the Lake Artists Society (LAS). He exhibited a total of 136 paintings at the annual exhibitions of the Society from 1920 onwards, at first intermittently but following his return from India, he exhibited almost every year until his death. He painted specific scenes for friends and gave many of his paintings away. In 1934 he painted The Grepon, Chamonix (private collection) in memory of a climber who had died on Mont Blanc. He exhibited his work on at least 30 occasions and held six exhibitions as sole artist.

Many of Somervell's watercolours are painted on what may be no more than brown or off-white wrapping paper. The paper has a ribbed appearance and some of that used in 1922 was watermarked 'Michallet, France'. He usually painted with the ribbing set horizontally, though in some paintings it appears vertically. He used this paper as early as 1913 and was still using it in the 1970s. I am not aware of any other artist who used a paper such as this. He often used bodycolour; that is watercolour mixed with gouache, in preference to watercolour alone and often used pastel either alone or with watercolour. Watercolour was his favoured medium in Tibet, the Himalaya and India.

He painted during the First World War and, although not a member, exhibited at the New English Art Club in 1917 (Ypres 1917, Stone Quarry, Pas de Calais) and again in 1921 (Dent Blanche). Another painting dating from his war service, The Somme Valley, was exhibited in 1921 at the LAS. There are, however, no Somervell paintings held in the Imperial War Museum. Also exhibited at the LAS in 1921 was The Matterhorn from Rothorn. He was to paint at least another nine views of the Matterhorn, the last, an oil, dated 1969.

The Alpine Club is fortunate in possessing 30 paintings by Somervell. Of these, 23 date from the Everest expeditions, the majority from 1922. Of the others, there is an oil, Jannu, dated 1943 and two watercolours of Nanda Devi: Nanda Devi from Marloti looking west dated 1933 and Nanda Devi from Kwal Ganga-Ka Pahar dated 1926.

The Everest Expeditions
When the 1922 Everest expedition arrived at their base camp, Somervell assisted with the organisation of stores for transport to higher camps whilst others prospected the route. He thought Everest stately rather than fantastic and was struck by the cubist appearance of the northern aspect of the mountain. In the first eight days of May he painted six oils and 10 watercolours of Everest. Amongst these would have been Mount Everest's Western Shoulder (AC 1922 and 1923) and The Western Shoulder of Everest (AC 1923).

Two years later, Somervell recorded sketching Chomolhari at least twice on 9 April 1924 although his brushes froze. There had been five paintings of Chomolhari in 1922. On a solitary excursion away from the main body of the expedition on 28 April, he painted Gyachung Kangfrom Gyachung La. He certainly painted base camp scenes again such as Everest (watercolour, private collection), however I suspect he spent less time at base in 1924 than in 1922, as there would have been no need to prospect the route. With bad weather and the rescue delaying summit attempts, he may not have had the time to seek out new views to sketch. However From Camp VI (oil, AC 1954) must have been inspired in 1924 as there was no such high camp in 1922.

Somervell continued to paint scenes from Tibet and the Himalaya well into his retirement. There is, for instance, an oil, Chomolhari, dated 1922 and 1972 (private collection). One presumes that the original dated from 1922 and continued to provide inspiration half a century later. Sadly, of some two hundred scenes of Tibet and the Himalaya that Somervell is known to have painted, I have been able to trace less than half. Similarly, I have been able to trace very few of his paintings of southern India.

 

Influences and Legacy
Somervell had sketched with William Rothenstein (1872-1945), an official war artist during WWI, and remarked on his attention to detail in drawing even the humblest of objects. In his autobiography Rothenstein records meeting Somervell in March 1918 but makes no other comment about him. Somervell later wrote that the aspiring mountain artist must first draw his mountain, simplifying detail, 'cubifying' as he put it.

Another source of influence on Somervell was Nicholas Roerich (1874-1947) who, in 1946, was described by Somervell as .... the greatest mountain painter alive... '. Roerich was a Russian who travelled through India and North America in the 1920s before settling in Kulu. Somervell stayed at his house for a few days in 1944. Roerich's paintings demonstrate a similarity in style with those of Somervell. The cubist influence on both artists is clear although Roerich saw and developed mysticism in his work while Somervell did not. Other influences would have included his father, other Lake artists such as the Heaton Coopers and also Edward Norton who himself painted and sketched with skill on both the 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions.

Somervell wrote of the colour and atmosphere of Tibet in ‘Assault on Everest: 1922’ and his pictures capture the distances, space and remoteness of Tibet and the Himalaya. Yet in ‘After Everest’ he wrote 'People at home will say my sketches are hard, lacking poetry or mystery but that is just where they are true records of this extraordinary clarity.' He was not the first European to paint the Himalayan peaks. An exhibition of paintings of Tibet, Kashmir and India by William Simpson was held at the Pall Mall Gallery in 1869 and Edward Lear had painted three oils and several watercolours of Kangchenjunga following a visit to Darjee1ing in 1874.

Somervell wrote in a note to his 1936 exhibition that a picture must 'communicate something the artist wishes to say' as well as being 'in some measure descriptive of its subject'. Although Somervell sold some paintings, he gave many away and should not in any way be regarded as a commercial artist. This allowed his style to develop much more freely than it might otherwise have done. Probably no other artist applied Cubism to the high mountains in such a consistent and authoritative way as Somervell. This is particularly true of his later works and he deserves more recognition as an artist in his own right. Most would regard his paintings of the great Himalayan peaks and Tibet as unique and they are an important part of the heritage of the Alpine Club as well as the history of mountain art.

This article is an abridged extract from the 2008 Alpine Journal article ‘Something the Artist Wishes to Say’ by David Seddon. You can read the full article here.

Report: 13th April 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Wednesday, 14 April 2021 08:26

Some brief information for mid-April.

The mountains are unusually quiet!

As a reminder, the Grands Mulets and Requin huts remain open. The Albert 1er hut is open from Fridays to Tuesdays. It is even more important than usual to make a reservation, (by internet or telephone,) because the wardens are organising themselves, (like everybody in these times), from one day to the next.

The Argentière hut closes on 15/04, with the re-opening foreseen for between the 1st and 10^th May. Waiting for information for Lognan hut.

The winter rooms remain accessible.

After yet another wintry spell, there was a small amount of fresh snow down to low altitudes between Sunday and Monday.  About 15cms fell at 2000m and 20 to 30 cms  above this in certain sectors, (Aiguilles Rouges and the Mont Blanc massive,) and without wind. However, this will not have improved conditions much in the high mountain as it is not sticking.  The glaciers, however, are well filled in.

Ski touring remains the main activity, though as to be  expected, the snowline is receding.

In the Bérard valley, skis  can be put on at the Berard café.  The main routes are popular, (if you can say that given how few people are about!). It is still possible to start skiing from the col des Montets, or the small parking area just before the Buet village, for the col de l'Encrenaz sector.

As a reminder, access to Charamillon is forbidden due to work being done on the upper station of the new ski lift. Therefore, to get to the Albert 1er hut it is best to go by the col du Passon. The classic descent from the Passon is still in condition, as is the normal route on the Aiguille du Tour. The Migot Spur was done about 10 days ago.

The artificial snow means the Pierre Ric is still OK and provides access to the Argentière sector. Harscheisen, (ski crampons), may be necessary if there has been a hard frost. The classics in this sector remain in condition: col des Grands Montets, col du Chardonnet (start on the true left, right looking up; 60m of fixed rope in place on the Saleina side), Glacier du Milieu ("the narrows are very narrow” this year, for those on ski), col du Tour Noir, col d'Argentière.

For steep skiing, the Barbey couloir and the SE coulior of the Chardonnet (take care with the timing and changes in condition for the latter), are being done regularly. No reliable information for the Y couloir, (a 30m pitch of mixed low down,) which, nonetheless, is OK in ascent. The N faces remain very, (too,) dry.

No info for the Lagarde couloir. The Couturier couloir should be feasible even if it looks to be well purged high up, (take care with the timing for the descent by the Whymper).

Mer de Glace/ Valley Blanche sector, A lot of ski carrying. The best option seems to be to start from Les Bois by the Filia path. Skis can be used for the first time where the return from Valley Blanche reaches the Mottets snack bar. Further carrying is needed to reach the Mer de Glace and up to about 300m above the ice caves.

Access to the Talèfre sector is still by the central couloir. Crevasses are appearing at the level of the  Salle à Manger.

The Valley Blanche, (there and back a real challenge!) and the Brèche Puiseux are still in condition. Solitude guaranteed!

The latest news is that the Whymper couloir is just about OK for the time of year, (secondary couloir is very dry, the bergschrund passable on the true left).

The Y couloir was done on 01/04, no information since.  A party did the Naia gully on 04/04 (crux hardly formed but well protectable).

The Pointe Isabelle was said to be in good condition, (the Courtes glacier is without problems, as is the upper section, the bergschrund is impressive but goes OK on the left).  

There has been little activity on the Mallory since the last update. It will be necessary re-track it.

For the Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets, skis can be put on at the old Para lift station. The Junction is OK.  

On the other hand, the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter remains desperately icy. The slope below the Vallot is like glass and on the Bosses Ridge there are some crevasses not normally seen there, (but passable). The N face remains “complicated”.

The good news is that the recent snowfall without wind means good skiing at the Plateaux and the Para. (It is also possible to go on the true left side of the Bossons glacier by the "Jonction" and the Plateau des Pyramides).

Skiing starts at the Maison Neuve (Les Houches) to access the Rognes/Trappier/Tête Rousse sector.

Further west, the snow level is at the Miage chalets for the Plan Glacier sector. This can be linked with a “there and back” to the col de Miage or the Mettrier ridge (good conditions, descent by the Armancette because the top third of the N face of the Dômes is bare ice). 

The Dôme traverse is still in good condition (the ridge is broad and without ice).  It is best to go up the true right side of the Tré la Tête glacier to avoid being exposed to serac fall from the N face of the Aiguille Tré la Tête.

There is no information for the snow quality for descending the Armancette, (some carrying above the lake and then on the return to La Frasse).

Still a little bit of activity, (but with carrying, skiing from about 1400m) in the combe d'Armancette sector, (Chaborgne or Bérangère couloirs,) and starting from  Notre Dame de la Gorge (skis on at the Roman bridge).

Very little has changed for hiking since the last update on 30th March. Patience is needed! Nonetheless there are still plenty of possibilities. For example: Miage chalets, Ayères chalets, Chailloux chalets, Mottets snack bar, Floria/Flégère, Loriaz chalets. 

The season is finished for snowshoe trails.

Duke of Edinburgh

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Created: Saturday, 10 April 2021 12:24

Report: 30th March 2021

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Created: Wednesday, 31 March 2021 07:04

Some news from the mountains after a few days of good weather.

It is no surprise that ski touring is still the main activity and most of the routes have been re-tracked since the (small) snowfall at the end of last week. As a reminder, one should  take both ski and normal crampons and respect the time of day.

As for alpinism, the gullies remain dry and it is rare to find good conditions.

It is very important to make a reservation before staying at a hut , guarded or not.

The  Bérard valley towards the Mont Buet is popular, as is the Col de l'Encrenaz from the Col des Montets. It is necessary to carry the skis for a bit when going to Loriaz and the Col de la Terrasse from Granges.

The Argentière sector is also popular.  Ski crampons are quasi essential when going up the Pierre à Ric early in the morning.  All the classic cols have been tracked and are generally in good condition. The Col du Passon (care with the timing, especially on the ascent,) the Trois Cols and the Tour Noir are OK. There is no fixed rope in place on the Col du Chardonnet.

Ice has been reported on the Glacier du Milieu and the start of the Y couloir, (mixed).

The Barbey Couloir has been skied but the first 50m were hard snow/ice. The Col des Cristaux and the NE des Courtes face have been tracked.

The N faces are generally dry. No information for the Couturier, the upper part and the dome look to be wind affected. Some parties have been on the Lagarde couloir (Droites) and the Petit Viking (Pré de Bar).

The Whymper couloir on the Verte was tracked on 29/03 in mainly good conditions, but this could change rapidly.

Mer de Glace sector : The Requin  hut  is open. The Brèche Puiseux is being done frequently. There is a 50m abseil on the Leschaux side then powder snow down to about 2,800m. As usual, the Mallet glacier is complicated and with few tracks; take care. Some parties have gone up towards the Col de Midi, (descent via the Cosmiques couloir or the Valley Blanche) and the Col d'Entrèves, (descent by the Combe de la Vierge.)

The Sorenson-Eastman above the Requin was very “technical” but the party got up it, (other gullies not in condition). The Valéria on the Petit Capucin is in OK condition. There is no information for the Tacul east face or the Triangle. The Mallory-Porter on the Aiguille du Midi has been tracked in ascent, no further information.

The return by the Mer de Glace to Chamonix is starting to deteriorate and is likely to get worse with the hot weather over the next days .

Mont Blanc  is being  climbed, (the Grands Mulets is open); ascend via the Para (some ski carrying), traverse the Jonction and then go up via the Plateaux,  (the N ridge of the Dôme is very icy.)  Most parties leave their skis at the Vallot, (some ice below the observatory). The N face has been skied but it is not really in condition.  The descent by the true left side of the Bossons glacier has been well frequented but a serac collapse has damaged the traverse to the Pyramides plateau.

Val Montjoie sector: There is still a lot of activity in the Armancette  basin, (Charborgne, Bérangère) with, for the moment , not too much ski carrying. For the Plan Glacier/Durier starting from Gruvaz,  it is possible to put on skis from about 1500m. The last 200m of the Mettrier and the N face direct of the Dômes de Miage look to be icy.

The Conscrits area is popular (hut open; reservation by email as the phone is not working).  Ski crampons are especially useful on some sections of the ascent; the Mauvais Pas is OK. The traverse of the Dômes de Miage and descent by the Armancette is in OK condition, (no ice). Mont Tondu is tracked.

Further afield, the normal route on the Dolent is tracked from La Fouly, (more info in the OHM route book). The Marécottes/Dents du Midi sector is popular!

Hikers are reminded  again that  that it is not yet the season for the high paths, such as the Chéserys/Lac Blanc, the Grands Balcons Nord and Sud, Brévent, Bel Lachat , etc. It is necessary to be content with certain routes at the base of the valley.  It is a good idea to contact Chamoniarde for guidance on the best options, which depend on the latest conditions, your experience and your equipment.