Report 16th March 2019

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Created: Saturday, 16 March 2019 21:37

A quick update following the return of the sun this weekend.

The recent weather fronts brought with them not only snow but also strong winds.  This makes it very difficult to estimate the amount of new snow, (on average 50 to 80 cms above 1800/2000m). A small amount of snow fell at the valley level which has temporally improved conditions there. At mid and higher altitudes, the snow depth has been significantly increased but is not stable. The avalanche risk, both natural and provoked, has been high since Friday with numerous and large windslabs breaking away. Today, Saturday, the rapid rise in temperatures has resulted in the snow sliding off the sun affected slopes. Caution is needed over the coming days. BERA has put out a warning for this Sunday: “the snow pack remains treacherous at altitude”.

It is also difficult to assess the snow quality. Chamoniarde has not received many reports.  The snow has been compacted and affected by the wind and the variations in temperatures together with the sun this Saturday.  The snow conditions are very variable.  They are generally good on the northern slopes above 2000m but crusty below this. They are less good on slopes affected by the sun, as the snow has not yet transformed and therefore crusty and with slide/avalanche debris in places.

The Trapette ski tour track at Argentiere was reported to be good condition on Saturday.

For snow shoers, even though there was some fresh snow down to the valley floor, a better option is at altitude on the signposted tracks prepared by the Pistes and Paths service and the Company du Mont-Blanc. (https://www.ccpmb.fr/eau-air-nature-environnement/les-sentiers-de-randonnees/itineraires-raquette-a-neige/)   (http://www.skiplan.com/bulletin/bulletin.php?station=chamonix&region=alpes&pays=france&lang=en)

Following the recent weather, the conditions have completely changed.  Activity in the mountains is slowly picking up as of this weekend.  The forecast is for more clement for next week.  

Enjoy your outings, take care and let Chamoniarde know about them, (online at OBS-ALP , or the cahier de course, or by telephone, or a message on the Chamoniarde Facebook page.)  Thanks in advance.  

Alpine Club – February 2019 Winter Meet

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Created: Thursday, 14 March 2019 09:36

Tatra Mountains - Poland

Following the success of the meet to the Polish Tatra Mountains, situated on the border with Slovakia, last year a second follow up visit was arranged.  Ten members attended. 

Up Close with Mike Kosterlitz

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Created: Thursday, 07 March 2019 21:41

Interview by Glyn Hughes

Mike, could you start by telling us about your earliest climbing experiences.

When I turned up in Cambridge in 1962 I had done very little real climbing, but I was very keen to do more, and I had already discovered that I seemed to have some talent for it. I went on a meet to the Derbyshire gritstone as soon as I could, and, wearing my mountain boots (I had not heard of PAs at the time), I got up a few climbs. Shortly after that I fell about 25ft off a VS because the rubber on the toe of my boot was worn away, and I tore my ankle. The more experienced members of the CUMC (Nick Estcourt, Rupert Roschnik, etc) were not amused by this novice showing off. However I managed to show them that I was actually able to climb, and that I could be competitive with them. That winter I joined the Club’s Ben Nevis meet and got my first taste of ice climbing, which I also enjoyed. I think the reason that I was competitive with the best of them was that I was quite strong, and was able to keep my nerve on rock climbs. I reasoned that if other people had done it before me, even if I could not see how to do the next bit, it was obviously possible and there must be holds there, and so I should be able to do it too. I did not frighten easily, and my (flawed) reasoning worked, so I went up the grades quite quickly, and become one of the better climbers in the CUMC.

Report 5th March 2019

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Created: Tuesday, 05 March 2019 17:47

After a long period of good weather, two days of bad weather, (1st and 4th of March,) have resulted in some 40cms of new snow at 2000m.  Strong winds, (gale force at altitude,) have caused severe drifting, stripping away the snow in some areas and probably creating windslab conditions in others.  The amount of snow will vary depending on aspect and altitude.

There is not sufficient snow for snow shoeing below 1100m, north facing, 1400m south facing.  The signposted paths in the valley floor are, however, good for walking with the correct footwear and sticks.

Better weather this morning (5th) has seen the return of mountaineering in the range.

Alpine Climbing Group – February 2019 Winter Meet

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Created: Thursday, 21 February 2019 10:11

Charles Inglis Clark Hut, Ben Nevis

Heading up to the Tower Face Comb

The first meet of the ACG, following its revival at the end of 2018, was based at the CIC hut, under the north face of Ben Nevis, built in memory of Charles Inglis Clark who died of wounds in Mesopotamia in 1918 during the First World War.  As well as being a member of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, he was a member of the Alpine Club and one of those commemorated in the 2018 Alpine Journal in the article to commemorate the sacrifice of another era's young Alpine Club members who died in the First World War.

Bruno Messerli

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Created: Wednesday, 20 February 2019 13:11

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Bruno Messerli, who passed away during the night of February 4th 2019.

The funeral took place in Bern on the 15th of February.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Report 18th February 2019

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Created: Monday, 18 February 2019 21:25

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 18/02/2019

Some more information following the weekend: 

The re-freezing is in places limited, areas in the sun are becoming very warm during the day. Avoid being caught out later in the day when there is a significant risk of (wet snow) avalanches. Though the weather is more like April, it is still only February and too early for many of the high-altitude routes, most of which are still dry.

Tour/Trient Sector: The Three Cols route is tracked; the descent either to Trient or Le Tour is in good condition, (as is the Col du Passon.)

Argentière Sector:  Col des Cristaux has been skied with good snow, (starting 40m below the col as above is dry).  The Couturier is tracked in ascent, conditions look to be OK. Courtes and Droites are still dry (NE also). The bergschrund for the “Y” on the Aiguille d'Argentière looks problematical, but no further information.  The Cols du Chardonnet, du Tour Noir and d'Argentière are tracked, (sometimes Spring snow, sometimes powder, depending on the aspect.) The return by the true left bank of the glacier to Lognan is good.

Talèfre Sector:  Very average conditions for the “Y” on the Aiguille Verte, (lower band in bad condition, more information in the cahier de course). On the other hand, the Whymper is in good condition, (the bergschrund goes on the left ascending, couloir completely on snow, softish, allowing step kicking.)  The central couloir gives the best exit, (right couloir has ice, Pierre à Béranger couloir has avalanche snowballs.)

Géant / Helbronner Sector:  Aiguille du Midi Ridge: Crampons essential, rope recommended.  Note, one needs to descend a little further than usual, to the second flat area, as the first step is bare ice.

Good conditions for the Valley Blanche, the descent from les Mottets is beginning to suffer but still OK. Brèche Puiseux is very popular, (50 m abseil), likewise the Capucin couloir (60 m abseil) and the Aiguillette du Tacul. Spring conditions on the Italian side (Marbrées, Toule: hand rail to get to the stairs, Col d'Entrèves, Brenva.)  Need to be there at the right time of day to get the best ski conditions.

The Mallory on the Aiguille du Midi is tracked in ascent.  The rock fall at the end of last summer is causing some problems on the Cosmiques Ridge, (there is an unstable section if it is not frozen, 2 abseils, 50m rope suffices.)   

Grands-Mulets: N Ridge is not in condition. Some parties have skinned up by the Plateaux, (fragile snow bridges on the slope beneath the Small Plateau,) and then the ridge to the Vallot hut, (rock hard snow on the Bosses ridge, good snow on the descent.)

Tête Rousse Sector:  Trappier Couloir in good condition, with the ascent via the Rognes. Désert de Pierre Ronde is tracked. A roped party has ascended Mont Blanc from Bellevue, without snow shoes, must have been a struggle!

Aiguilles Rouges : ski touring just about everywhere, (descent to Valloricine, Buet and Plaine Joux OK.)  Be aware of the avalanche risk on slopes exposed to the sun and the possibility of cornices collapsing.

Ice Climbing: Still a lot to go at, if not exposed to the sun, (Notre Dame de la Gorge, Left bank of the Argentière glacier, Pétoudes.) It is probably over for the Argentière Right bank. The Barre des Charcotains is finished. Still plenty to do at Cogne.

Report 15 February 2019

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Created: Friday, 15 February 2019 19:38

Mountain Conditions  15/02/2019

Here is the update for this week of beautiful weather.

The amount of snow (about 30 to 40 cm above 2000m). deposited during the bad weather last weekend is difficult to estimate because of the accompanying strong winds. Spring weather has arrived for the first week of the half term holidays.  The freezing level is climbing very high during the day, (above 3000m.)  As you may guess, this heat can cause wet snow slides/avalanches, especially on the sunny slopes.  The snow quality is variable, frozen and often affected by the wind on the north facing slopes, frequently crusty where exposed to the sun.  (Further transformation is needed before it becomes ideal for skiing.)

Ski touring remains the most popular activity for this winter.  Conditions are generally good, though it is important not to be too late in the day.  There is snow right down to the valley floor and the mid-mountain classics are popular.  For example: at Contamines (Monts Jovets, Cols de Fenêtre/Cicle/Chasseurs), at Plaine Joux (Moëde Anterne, Pointe Noire de Pormenaz), in the Aiguilles Rouges (all the routes), at Vallorcine (Buet, Loriaz, Col de la Terrasse), and in the neighbouring Switzerland (Bel Oiseau, Carraye, Pointe Ronde).

This good weather has also meant the start of the ski mountaineering season.  The “Z” track from the Aiguille du Midi is open but very icy, (crampons essential).  The Valley Blanche is basically in good condition and it is possible to ski down to Chamonix.  The way up to the Brèche Puiseux is tracked, as is the descent to the Mont Mallet glacier (icy snow in the exit couloir). On the Italian side, all the classics are tracked (Marbrés,Toule, Col d'Entrèves, Brenva) but respect the time of day. There is skiing has also in the Argentiere sector, (the hut opens today, Friday), e.g. Col des Grands Montets, traverse of the Col du Passon, Three Cols, Col du Tour Noir and Argentière are all tracked.  However, the is no information concerning the north faces, which look to be very dry. There has been activity in the Trient sector, (e.g. Glacier des Grands), the return is good.

Conditions for ice climbing are changing rapidly with this warm weather.  It is recommended to avoid areas that catch the sun, (e.g. right bank of Argentière)). Even in shaded areas be very careful to check the conditions.

Still little or no information about winter mountaineering and the mixed routes.  The Cosmiques Ridge is being done regularly. 

Andy Nisbet (1953 to 2019)

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Created: Thursday, 14 February 2019 19:21

Contribution to climbing in the Alps, the Greater Ranges and of course Scotland

Andy Nisbet, Lurchers Crag 2019 (Photo Sandy Allan)

It has been a week since the loss of two leading Scottish mountaineers in the same accident on Ben Hope on the 5^th February 2019 that left the winter climbing community stunned. It appears likely that Steve Perry and Andy Nisbet fell from the upper section of a new route on the West Face of Ben Hope, while completing a new route together. 

Report 8th February 2019

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Created: Saturday, 09 February 2019 07:03

Mountain Conditions 08/02/2019

An update for this weekend and the start of the school holidays.  The conditions are becoming favourable for winter sports.  Unsettled weather this weekend but sunshine is forecast for next week.

For skiers, (piste, hors-piste and touring), the snow is overall good.  However, there remains an important risk of avalanche which will become difficult to spot with the snowfall and wind foreseen for this weekend.  Many professionals have observed avalanche activity in areas not usually affected, take care! 

During this holiday period there will be a lot more skiers on the pistes, adapt your speed accordingly!

For ski-tourers, conditions are mainly good, though some rocks are exposed here and there.  There is a cornice threatening the true right bank of the ENSA couloir, (notably if there is a wind or a warm period.)

The Valley Blanche is generally in good condition.  The ridge is equipped with rope handrails and stakes but the « Z » is not tracked yet.  There are quite a few rocks on the Mer de Glace between the ice caves and the climb back up to Mottets. From Mottets the descent down to Chamonix is OK.

The classic ski tours remain popular, (Contamines valley, Aiguilles Rouges, Bel Oiseau / Col de la Forclaz sector etc.) Good conditions also higher up on the glaciers, (Brèche Puiseux, Argentière sector, Col du Passon etc.)

Generally good conditions also for ice climbing.

However, for the mixed routes, as has been the case for the last two years, conditions are very dry with little or no activity.

Enjoy the mountains safely and the Chamoniarde team look forward to hearing about your experiences on: https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/cahier-de-courses

Report 25th January 2019

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Created: Saturday, 26 January 2019 07:37

The high pressure since the last update has resulted in stable but very cold weather.  The region was not affected by the bad weather elsewhere on Wednesday.  There has been a cold wind since Thursday, causing windslab in places and probably large snow drifts at altitude.

Ski touring and ice climbing remain the main activities for the moment.  The winter mountaineering season has not really started yet, the routes are still very dry. 

Ski touring: touring possibilities throughout the Mont Blanc range, (Aiguilles Rouges – Argentière sector - Requin sector – Col de la Forclaz – Loriaz sector …..) Possible to start skiing from 1000m, (cover initially poor, but good above 1500m.)  Take ski crampons because certain passages have been stripped down to hard ice/snow by the wind (ridges, cols.)

Ice climbing: Lots of activity last week in the following sectors: Trient (Pétoudes and Barre des Charcotins), Argentière (left and right banks) and Crèmerie.  A rope was seen on the Sainte Marie Viaduc icefall.  The lines looked to be formed at the Col des Montets (Barre du Chenavier) but no more information.  The Loriaz icefall looks to be well formed. In the Aosta valley, conditions remain unchanged from the last update, (19^th Jan).

Valley Blanche: the ridge is now partially equipped, with a rope on the crest, (very hard snow.)  The “Z” track is not yet in place.  The current conditions require a good level of ski ability.  The run down to Chamonix (via the Mottets,) remains OK.

With regards to the re-opening of the Plan Praz lift. this should open on Sunday 27^th January.  However, check the CMB site for the latest information as it might open already during the day on the Saturday.  It always remains possible to reach the Brevent ski area from the Flégère cable car.

Winter Hiking: the valley floor paths are icy, foresee using walking crampons.  The signposted snow shoe trails at mid-altitude, (prepared by the Mont Blanc Company) are proving popular as they have plenty of snow.  Those in the valley floor, (prepared by council, Communauté de communes,) have enough, albeit compacted, snow.

Report 19th January 2019

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Created: Monday, 21 January 2019 03:23

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 19/01/2019

The bad weather the previous weekend, together with that on Thursday, has greatly improved the skiing conditions. The amount of snow fallen varies from one sector to another, for example there is less snow at Vallorcine.

The ski domains are in near perfect condition; blue skies, well prepared pistes and not too many people.  However, still take care, particularly in controlling one’s speed.  Also check the bulletin on the Compagnie du Mont Blanc site to see what is open!!

Good conditions for ski touring, though the snow quality can be unreliable, (wind slab in places,) and there are still snow some icy patches away from the snow bowls.  (This can also mean a hard base with rocks just below the surface in some areas.)  It is now possible to put on the skis directly from the valley start.

All the Aiguilles Rouges classics, (Col de la Terrasse, Mont Buet, Col de Beugeant, Col des Dards & du Belvédère, Crochues-Bérard, Brèche de Bérard, Col de la Floria, Col de la Glière, Aiguillette des Houches) and in the Argentière sector, (Col du Passon, Col du Chardonnet there and back, Col du Tour Noir) are tracked.

Concerning the Aiguille du Midi, the ridge is still not equipped (only some stakes in place).  It is still early season, crevasse danger. There are some exposed rocks on the Mer de Glace but the following ski back down to Chamonix is good. The Mottets Buvette is open for the season, as is the Requin hut.

Ice climbing is possible in the usual sectors: Trient (Pétoudes), Argentière (left and right banks, Crémerie) and Les Contamines. In the Aosta valley, the icefalls below 1800m are not well formed.  However, the lack of snow means those higher up are more easily accessible than usual.

 No information concerning the mixed routes; still not in condition!!!

Lastly, conditions for snow shoeing, ski du fond and winter hiking are good.

Report 19th January 2019

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Created: Monday, 21 January 2019 03:18

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 19/01/2019

The bad weather the previous weekend, together with that on Thursday, has greatly improved the skiing conditions. The amount of snow fallen varies from one sector to another, for example there is less snow at Vallorcine.

The ski domains are in near perfect condition; blue skies, well prepared pistes and not too many people.  However, still take care, particularly in controlling one’s speed.  Also check the bulletin on the Compagnie du Mont Blanc site to see what is open!!

Good conditions for ski touring, though the snow quality can be unreliable, (wind slab in places,) and there are still snow some icy patches away from the snow bowls.  (This can also mean a hard base with rocks just below the surface in some areas.)  It is now possible to put on the skis directly from the valley start.

All the Aiguilles Rouges classics, (Col de la Terrasse, Mont Buet, Col de Beugeant, Col des Dards & du Belvédère, Crochues-Bérard, Brèche de Bérard, Col de la Floria, Col de la Glière, Aiguillette des Houches) and in the Argentière sector, (Col du Passon, Col du Chardonnet there and back, Col du Tour Noir) are tracked.

Concerning the Aiguille du Midi, the ridge is still not equipped (only some stakes in place).  It is still early season, crevasse danger. There are some exposed rocks on the Mer de Glace but the following ski back down to Chamonix is good. The Mottets Buvette is open for the season, as is the Requin hut.

Ice climbing is possible in the usual sectors: Trient (Pétoudes), Argentière (left and right banks, Crémerie) and Les Contamines. In the Aosta valley, the icefalls below 1800m are not well formed.  However, the lack of snow means those higher up are more easily accessible than usual.

 No information concerning the mixed routes; still not in condition!!!

Lastly, conditions for snow shoeing, ski du fond and winter hiking are good.

Christopher Simpson

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Created: Wednesday, 16 January 2019 14:19

It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Christopher Simpson.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Report 10 January 2019

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Created: Thursday, 10 January 2019 21:18

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 10/01/2019

Though large amounts of snow have fallen in Eastern Europe, we are still waiting for conditions to significantly change in the Western alps.

The last snowfall gave 20cms of light snow at 2000m, improving conditions both on and off piste, (take care the underlying base is hard.)

Ski touring is popular, despite the variable snow depths.  Ski crampons remain essential.  Still some walking for Loriaz and Bel Oiseau.  In the Contamines Montjoie valley, the roman road is bare ice, (crampons.).

The wind over the last few days has caused drifting, especially in the high mountain.  Do not forget to check the weather forecast and avalanche risk before each outing.

More snow is forecast for this weekend.

In the high mountain conditions the faces and gullies remain extremely dry. Patience needed!

Ice Climbing: The right and left banks of the Argentiere glacier are OK but the Cremerie and Berard still do not have much ice.

With the lack of snow, the signposted snow shoe tracks are accessible for walkers. Lightweight crampons could be useful, even essential in some places, together with good boots and hiking poles. This should allow one to walk up to 1500m without too much problem. 

Be warned that despite the lack of snow the paths at higher altitude, such as the Grand Balcons or to the Lakes, are not feasible for hikers or snow shoers. 

Report 4th January 2019

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Created: Friday, 04 January 2019 23:56

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 04/012019

The period of high pressure continues, meaning the conditions have not improved since the last update. 

The snow remains very hard (concrete), both on the piste and beyond.

Ski touring continues in the same sectors : Bel Oiseau and Loriaz (some walking), Mont Buet/ Col de Bérard (thin snow cover and patchy lower in the valley), Aiguillette des Posettes via Ardoisières, from the Index/Flégère (Crochues-Bérard, Col des Dards, Col du Bélvédère, Col de Beugeant), Lacs Noirs et Aiguille de la Glière from Cornu, Aiguillette des Houches from the Brévent, Argentière  sector (via Grands-Montets,) Col du Passon there and back, Col du Chardonnet, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière).

Though the above routes are not very technical, even the easiest amongst them are not currently suitable for beginners because of the difficult snow conditions, (risk of falling both in ascent and descent). Good technique, sharp edges and ski crampons are essential.

Of the signposted ski touring routes, only the one at La Tour is in reasonable condition (and even this requires ski crampons.) 

Conditions for snow shoeing are not favourable, (poor snow cover, hard snow.)  Nonetheless, it is possible to go up to the Loriaz chalets or do a loop at the Prarion summit.  Most of the paths signposted by the Compagnie du Mont Blanc are open:  Aiguillette des Posettes from the Vallorcine ski bubbles and the Autannes loop (Balme domain,) Index loop and the Raverettaz (Flégère domain.).

Hiking is possible in the valley up to about 1500m, (Petit Balcon sud, the Floria, cabane du Cerro. The paths have hard snow or ice, (good boots, hiking poles and small crampons necessary.)  It is possible to venture as far as Chapeau buvette, the Loriaz chalets, (both open), or the Chailloux chalets.

Conditions for ice climbing have improved these last few days thanks to the cold spell.  No precise details, but there are possibilities at Trient, (Odeyi, les Pétoudes), Argentière (Crèmerie, Left and right banks):  Risk of overcrowding.  The Loriaz and Picheu icefalls look to be formed.

In the high mountain, activity is limited to the Marbrées traverse and Cosmiques Ridge, (possible to avoid last summer’s rock fall area by going directly up the gully to the right of the Cosmiques Spur,) There are some other possibilities e.g. Chéré, Burnier Vogler, Pélissier, though these are very dry.

There is more precise information in the Chamoniarde Route Book.

John Temple

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Created: Thursday, 03 January 2019 12:33

News has reached us of the death of Club Member John Temple.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Report 21 December 2018

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Created: Saturday, 22 December 2018 08:12

Some information for the start of the winter season.

The Chamonix Ski Domain:

The Aiguille du Midi cable car, the Montenvers train and all of the Tour-Vallorcine  ski area are open from Saturday onwards.  There is plenty of snow above 1300m and conditions for skiing and snow shoeing are good. 

The Grands Montets cable car will be closed for the season, making the top of the Bochard lift the upper limit of the secured ski area.  The “Point de Vue” and “Pylones” pistes will not be opened, this season, making this a high mountain area.  This area will not be signposted, checked for hazards or have safety patrols. Despite rumours to the contrary, there will not be a secured ski touring track put in place giving access to this area.

Though the Midi lift is open, it is still too early to ski the Vallee Blanche (weak snow bridges).

The Loriaz hut opens this weekend, the Lognan hut is foreseen to open on Christmas day.

The forecast for the next few days is for warm, damp weather with the snow/rain limit around 2000m. Above this be aware of accumulated snow with the associated avalanche risk.

Ski touring is feasible above 1500m, for example, the Col de Cicle, Col des Dards, Bel Oiseau, Col du Passon, and Col du Tour Noir.  No precise information for the Berard valley but it is possible to ski back to the road.

No news for the alpinists, conditions appear to be still desperately dry, (Argentière sector, Chardonnet etc.).

Some of the icefalls are formed at Cogne.  (N.B. the Money sector is closed because of a nesting bearded vulture,) and Valsavarenche.

Sue Baldock

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Friday, 30 November 2018 18:27

It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Sue Baldock, on the 25th November.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website

Ian (Pin) Howell

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Created: Friday, 30 November 2018 12:15

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Ian (Pin) Howell, who died suddenly and unexpectedly on Tuesday, November 27th.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website