AC Honorary Member Harish Kapadia has just been presented with the Asian Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the celebrations in Seoul, Korea.
News has reached us of the untimely death of Club Member Lt Col Simon Hall MBE RM.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
It is with great sadness that we report the death in New Zealand on 30th October of Honorary Member Norman Hardie, a member of the team to first ascend Kangchenjunga in 1955 and past President of the New Zealand Alpine Club.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website
The Alpine Club is deeply saddened by the news that AC Honorary Member Fred Beckey has died at the age of 94. A climber who had an unparalleled number of first ascents to his name, right across the US.
''But in the end, its really the selection of climbs that tell us the most about the world's most accomplished climber. Beckey's favorite climbs are defined by purity of line, position, and quality of movement - not difficulty. Fred's new book makes me really appreciate his innate ability to choose nature's most beautiful lines'' Mark Kroese writing in both the AAJ 2012 and the AJ 2013.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Iain McMorrin.
Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
Since the bad weather last weekend, (wind at altitude with snow almost down to the valley,) the Office de Haute Montagne has not received any information about recent conditions. The quantity of fresh snow and the extent of drifting during the stormy weather remains largely unknown. On the 26th October there were again strong N/NW winds.
The rocks are still plastered with snow, except for those in the Aiguilles Rouge exposed to the sun. (Only the Flégère lift is running on this side of the valley at the moment.)
The warm weather these last two days has been ideal for climbing on the valley crags N.B.there has been a rockfall at the Spa sector at the Fayet : an area of rock has come away near a bolt protected crack used for dry tooling.
Concerning the hiking trails, the snow has melted away up to about 2000m but above this there is still some left, especially on the north facing slopes, (hard snow). Be aware, as part of the preparation for the winter season, at mid altitudes many of the signposts are being removed, as well as some of the footbridges.
“It’s all bullshit on Everest these days,” the late Sir Edmund Hillary once said. Wrong animal. Every year 12,000 kg of solid human waste is dumped at Gorak Shep at the head of Nepal’s Khumbu valley, the produce of thousands of mountaineers, trekkers and their entourages of sherpas, porters etc who congregate at Everest Base Camp in the climbing seasons. Unsurprisingly there is a pollution hazard for communities downstream.
The weather is due to deteriorate for the weekend and will restrict activity at altitude. Nonetheless, here is the latest reported information:
The 3 Monts route was done at the end of last week, with some steep sections and apparently bare ice in places. The normal (Gouter) route up Mont Blanc was also being climbed
Near the Torino hut (still open), the conditions remain generally good for the Dent du Geant, the Rochefort Ridge, (good track and firm snow,) the Entrèves and the Marbrées.
Activity also on the Tour Ronde normal route, (stonefall reported,) and the N face, (no further info.)
Some parties climbed the Küffner Ridge, using the direct start as there is a rockfall zone near the Col de la Fourche. The Lafaille and Valéria gullies would appear to be climbable, but still thin and the bergshrunds could be problematical.
Near the Aiguille du Midi, the S face and the Cosmiques Spur are in condition. Some activity on the Midi-Plan, with most parties turning back before the abseils at the Rognon, in order not to miss the last lift back down. Some parties on Fil à Plomb but the other mixed routes on the N face of the Midi are not in good condition.
A party on the Desmaison route, Grandes Jorasses; the route being very difficult due to alternating dry (rock)/ice and inconsistent snow. A party topped out on the Shroud. The descent was awkward but passable. The Colton-McIntyre looks to have very little ice.
Despite the sections of bare ice and crevasses, the Dômes de Miage ridge was traversed last weekend. The Tré la Tête glacier is heavily crevassed.
No particular problems for hikers, other than some paths being closed “for work”.
In August 2017, four friends travelled to the Shimshal valley in northern Pakistan to look for unclimbed peaks. George, Steve, Clay and Ross had previous expedition experience but due to work commitments could only afford three weeks away.
Latest update for this weekend:
The recent good weather has favoured activity in the high mountains but, as reported frequently, the conditions are very dry for the season. Most of the gullies and mixed routes are not yet in condition; more snow is needed!
The Torino is the only high altitude hut still open. At mid altitudes, only the
Plan de l'Aiguille and the Loriaz huts are open.
Tour Glacier sector: the normal routes on Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and the Aiguille du Tour are being done. (N.B. the Col Supérieur du Tour is still awkward to cross.) No information about the Chardonnet.
Argentière sector: Good conditions reported for the Bettembourg-Thivierge gully, no information for the other routes in this sector.
Cosmiques/Torino sector: Aiguilles Marbrées and Entrèves and the Dent du Géant remain popular. Parties turned back on the Rochefort Ridge, (too much snow.) The Kuffner Ridge is being done again, in OK conditions (see cahier de course).
Rock routes are being climbed on the Aiguille du Midi S face, Pointes Lachenal and the Tacul satelittes.
The Fil à Plomb was done recently. It is necessary to bypass the bergshrund using the rocks to the left; afterwards the conditions are more or less OK.
No information about the 3 Monts traverse, but the normal route on the Tacul is being done regularly.
The Gouter route on Mont Blanc remains popular. It is still forbidden to walk along by the Tramway du Mont Blanc rail track, only the Rognes or the Chalets de l'Are paths are allowed.
The Tricot ridge and the traverse of the Bionnassay are also being done, conditions are more technical than usual, with the Bionnassay ridge being very thin. There are some ice sections on the north side and powder snow on the Italian side.
A party turned back on the Dômes de Miage traverse due to awkward conditions, (the ridge very narrow, crevasses etc.)
Many hikers are enjoying the valley paths during these beautiful autumnal days. Do not forget to check for closed paths ( chemins fermés pour travaux ) before setting out. Some of the signposts are being removed prior to the winter; take a map!
The Curalla Via Ferrata at Plateau d'Assy will close on 13th November and the cables on the Dérochoir will be removed on the same date. The Tricot footbridge will be taken down for the winter between 16 and 20th October.
George Starkey Hut, Patterdale, NE Lakes
Main Road (A592), Patterdale Village, Cumbria. Nearest Postcode: CA11 0NN
Grid Ref – NY 396162 (OS Outdoor Leisure Map No 5)
The AC are planning a training focused meet based in Patterdale (Lake District). The focus will be on transferring skills to Aspirant Members who wish to improve their alpine skills and to Full Members in need of a refresher after a break from alpine climbing.
Informal training and guidance will be provided by Sandy Allen.
Topics will range from what to put into your rucksack to some basic Alpine mountaineering skills.
All the high mountain huts are now closed, with the exceptions of the Cosmiques, (closes 7/10) and the Torino, (closes 2/11). All the lifts are also closed except for the Aig du Midi and Skyway which will remain open until the beginning of November.
At lower altitudes, only the Loriaz and Plan de l’Aiguille are still open.
Despite the mixed weather in September and the cool, windy weather at the start of October, the mixed routes and the gullies are still not in condition.
Some routes, such as the Contamine-Grisolle or the Chéré on the Triangle du Tacul, remain feasible.
The normal route on the Tacul and the Midi Plan traverse, (as far as the Rognon,) have been done recently in OK conditions.
The 3 Monts traverse has not been done now for a fortnight. Following the recent passages of bad weather, the rock routes often have ice in the cracks and snow on the ledges.
A large part of the Tournier Spur on the Aiguille du Midi N face has collapsed leaving the area unstable.
No recent news from the Torino sector, though the traverses of the Marbrées and Entrèves remain feasible. Take care on the glaciers, as the snow bridges are still weak.
In the Mer de Glace sector, (Montenvers train closed,) some of the in-situ material at the Egralets and the Couvercle-Leschaux traverse has been dismantled for the winter. The way is still possible but demands good technical ability. A party has climbed the Shroud, though in delicate conditions. The Colton McIntyre would appear to be out of condition for the moment.
The Aiguille de Bionnassay was climbed at the beginning of October, there and back from the Durier, in generally good conditions
In the Albert 1er sector, the routes on the Chardonnet have not come into condition yet. In general, it has been far too dry this year and patience is needed before the routes will be feasible again.
The normal route up Mont Blanc by the Goûter remains popular, (huts and lifts closed,) despite unfavourable conditions for the Aiguille de Gouter. One needs to be well experienced and have the right material.
In the mid mountain, Autumn is the time for a lot of maintenance work and many of the paths are closed. Check the arrêtés en cours site before venturing out.
Autumn is also a time when it is difficult to gather good information, (huts and lifts closed, not much activity etc,) so the Chamoniarde relies on your feedback to create the updates. Please do not hesitate to write up your outings in the cahier de courses or give them a phone call. Whether the conditions were good or bad, the information is always useful and most welcome.
The rise in temperatures has melted a lot of the recent snow at mid-altitudes. However, some of the shaded paths may still be awkward from about 2300m upwards.
During this Autumn period, many of the paths are closed for repair. For example, the path linking Col des Montets and Lac Blanc will be closed from 25 to 29/09 as far as the Tête aux Vents cairn.
Consult the list at Chamoniarde site.
The Tour du Mont Blanc is still feasible but you need to be self-sufficient, as many of the huts are closed.
Most of the high mountain huts are now closed; exceptions are the Goûter, Cosmiques and Torino huts.
The recent snow has temporarily improved conditions for some of the Tacul Triangle routes, but overall the conditions are dry. Summer 2017 was the driest ever recorded and Autumn, with its snowfalls, has only just started, patience is required!
The Chéré, Allemands, Contamine-Grisolle, Contamine-Mazeaud and Contamine-Negri are being climbed in variable conditions.
The normal route on the Tacul is tracked but the not the traverse of the 3 Monts. The Mont Maudit looks to be avalanche prone.
The Pointes Lachenal traverse is tracked but there is already some bare ice. The Laurence and Cosmiques ridges are also being done.
The S faces are being climbed, despite some snow still on the ledges.
Near the Torino the conditions are Ok for the Aiguilles d'Entrèves and Marbrées (best done N-S), traverses. Good conditions for the Dent du Géant. The Rochefort ridge was done on 22/09.
Careful on the glacier (weak snow bridges.)
All the lifts are shut, except for the Aiguille du Midi, Montenvers train and the Skyway (Italy).
Good conditions reported for the Grand Paradis via Chabod hut.
We are entering a period where less information is available. La Chamoniarde is counting on you to report your experiences to them, to help with their next report.
The Alpine Club is working with the BMC to look at ways of helping young, talented British climbers to improve their skills and knowledge about expedition climbing ...
Venue - Bob Downes Hut (Climbers Club), Froggatt, Peak District, S32 3ZJ http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/venues/ro-bob-downes-hut-froggatt/
If you are an experienced, keen British alpinist under 35 years old and wish to attend then book a place on the event by emailing
Tim Elson at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and cc Ian Parnell at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
This is not an introductory programme for alpine climbing, but targeted at those who already have significant experience in Scottish winter climbing, summer and winter alpinism and perhaps expeditions. You don't need to be jogging up North Faces or climbing Scottish grade VIII to come along, just to be actively climbing in the mountains and be excited about expedition alpine climbing. If this sounds like you then please come along!
Between seasons !
The Planpraz/Brévent – Flégère/Index –Tour/col de Balme – Valllorcine – Lognan/ Grands Montets – Prarion lifts are closed. The following are still open : Montenvers train–Aiguille du Midi cable car –Bellevue cable car (until 24th September) – Monte Bianco Skyway, (Italy).
Many of the huts are now closed; more information on the Chamoniarde site.
There is snow down to 1800m, and at 2000m there is 10 to 20cms in some places. The Loriaz and Moëde Anterne huts have 15cm of snow, 10/15 cm at the Albert 1er, 20 cm at the Leschaux , 30 cm at the Goûter, Torino and Conscrits and 50 cm of new snow at the Cosmiques.
It is cold for the time of year. At mid-altitudes in the morning the ground is frozen, (use mountain boots and hiking poles), and snow covered in some areas. This creates difficulties on some paths. At higher altitudes, the temperatures are low (-10° at 3300/3500m), with almost winter conditions. There were strong winds during some of the snow falls, creating both snow drifts and patches of bare ice. Take care on the glaciers, the snow and wind have helped form snow bridges which can be extremely fragile. The rocks are plastered with snow but the gullies are not yet in condition!
There has not been a lot of activity in the high mountain recently.
Aiguille du Midi sector : some parties on the Chéré couloir, (abseil descent, be careful of other parties). The Triangle du Tacul looks snow covered but appearances can be deceiving. Parties turned back on the Pointes Lachenal traverse, (windslab.)
Torino sector, the Marbrées and Entrèves traverses were done in winter conditions. Parties turned back on the Rocherfort Ridge, (bare ice.)
Albert 1er sector : the Petite Fourche has been done.
Chamonix Aiguilles sector : everything is plastered.
Conscrits sector: no activity for the moment.
With the series of weather fronts since the start of September, it has been difficult to find a good weather window for the high mountains.
In the last two days about 30cms of snow has fallen at 3500m, with some drifting due to the strong winds. The rocks are plastered, but routes like Cosmiques Ridge or the Aiguilles Marbrées traverse remain feasible.
There is fresh snow down to 2100m and some paths are affected, notably on the multi-day tours, (Aiguilles Rouges, Tour du Mont Blanc...). To remain safe, mountain boots and hiking poles are essential.
The bad conditions, plus the fact that most of the lifts will soon be closed, means some of the huts might bring forward their closure dates. Check with the hut before leaving the valley. On a separate topic, be aware that there are unstable blocks on the routes at the “Le Spa”,(Fayet) dry tooling site.
Several paths in the Chamonix valley are closed for works, details available on the Chamoniarde site.
The Mont Blanc Tramway is closed and you are reminded that it is forbidden to follow the tracks when accessing the huts on the normal route up Mont Blanc.
There are plenty of options for climbing on the valley crags during the dry spells.
After a few days of mixed weather, the sun is back again in the mountains. The rock routes at altitude are generally dry, though some ledges are holding snow and there is a risk of verglas in shaded areas.
- Albert 1er : The normal routes on the Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche have been done recently. The Aiguille du Tour remains feasible by the Table Ridge and the normal route. There is a fixed rope to help cross the begschrund. The cols to cross to and from the Trient glacier are still awkward and some parties have turned back.
- Argentière : The hut shuts on 7th September. The access to and from the glacier via Lognan has been affected by the pipelaying works. At Grand Montets, the Petite Verte is no longer practical but the Belvedere, (East) ridge remains feasible. Care needed with the bergschrund at the Col du Grand Montets.
- Couvercle : The Moine has dried well. The normal route and S ridge are feasible even though there is still some snow near the top. The Contamine route looks more awkward. The Moine Ridge on the Verte seems like it should soon be feasible. The landline at the hut is not working, please use the mobile number to make a reservation.
- Leschaux : The routes near the hut are dry, but there is still some snow on the W face of the Petites Jorasses.
- Envers des Aiguilles : There is still snow on the upper third of the Aiguilles but, Tour Rouge ,Tour Verte and the Pointes des Nantillons are being climbed. There is no water at the hut; fill your bottles at the stream a few turns before the hut. There are some water containers along the path, you can fill them and attach them to the rope, so that they can be hauled up to the hut.
- Requin : The hut is closed. There are 12 bunks with blankets in the winter room; no gas but there are cooking pots etc.
- Torino : Conditions OK for the traverses of the Rochefort , Entrèves and Marbrées. No problems for the S facing routes on the Tacul satellites. The Dent du Geant still has snow and verglas, but still some parties managed to climb it today.
- Les Cosmiques : Nobody has done the 3 Monts route up Mont Blanc yet. This is due to the amount of fresh snow. No problems for the Laurence and Cosmiques ridges. Conditions for the Pointes Lachenal traverse are temporary better due to the new snow. Foresee an abseil of 35m.
Frendo Spur and Midi-Plan traverse are not recommended as the conditions are too dry.
- Goûter / Tête Rousse : The normal route up Mont Blanc was tracked this morning. The Mont Blanc tramway is closed and it is forbidden to walk along the rail track!! The approach to the huts is by the Rognes path or the Chalets de l'Are. The Bellevue cable car remains open until 24th September.
- Durier / Conscrits : The Durier is shut but the Conscrits will be open for a few more days yet. There has been no activity recently due to the recent bad weather. The “there and back” either to the Central or the East Dôme, via the Col des Domes, remains feasible, however, conditions are awkward on the Tré la Tête glacier. The traverse of the Dômes is not in condition.
La Chamoniarde would like to remind you that they are collecting as much information as possible and the more reports they receive about your outings the better their advice will be.
The club is looking to extend its programme of meets, which offer great opportunities for members to get to know each other by climbing, walking or mountaineering, both within the UK, and overseas.
As well as the flagship Alpine Club summer meet, and regular winter climbing meets, not to mention the programme of Aspirant meets at home and in the Alps, the club is adding new venues each year, as members come forward to offer suggestions.
A quick update, as Autumn arrives, for the conditions in the mountains following the recent bad weather. It has snowed down to 2500m, with the showers being very localised.
Albert 1er Hut: 5 cm of snow (the landline phone is not working, please use the mobile: 06 60 33 73 62)
Envers des Aiguilles Hut: only a few cms at the hut and the lower sectors (Tour Verte, Tour Rouge...) should dry quickly. The Aiguille de la République and the Grépon look to have a lot of snow.
The north side of the Aiguilles de Chamonix: The rock is plastered with snow and patience is needed before climbing in this sector, (Pilier Rouge de Blaitière, Peigne...).
Cosmiques Hut: about 30 cm of new snow, plastering the rocks. Be aware of a potential avalanche risk (fresh snow and wind) on the 3 Monts route.
Torino Hut : About 10cms. The rock routes (Dent du Géant, Tacul satellites) should be dry by the beginning of the week, when the good weather returns.
Goûter Hut: 20 cm. The normal route up Mont-Blanc should be re-tracked in a day or two.
The forecast is for the weather to improve, starting on Sunday with an East wind at altitude until Monday. Temperatures will remain cool for the time of year.
No real developments since the last report of 23rd August. However, the conditions are going to change with the bad weather forecasted for the next few days.
We are getting reports of numerous stone falls, sometimes large, from many areas in the Mont Blanc Massive. Great care is needed in choosing suitable routes and respecting the time of day!
The Charpoua hut is now closed. Some of the other huts and lifts will also close soon. Please visit the dedicated hut websites and the Company du Mont Blanc site ( www.montblancnaturalresort.com ) for the latest information.
Because of pipe laying work, it is forbidden to use the path between Lognan and the Argentière glacier viewpoint/Lognan hut. Access is only possible via the Pierre à Ric and the path that climbs up under the Lognan hut.
It is also forbidden to go up the Mont Blanc Tramway tracks between Bellevue and the Nid d'Aigle. Access to the Tête Rousse is possible by either the Rognes path or the Chalets d’Are.
