Great weather, isn’t it? If you were quick off the mark you would have enjoyed blue skies on Wednesday and Thursday but we now have two days of unsettled weather before the next good spell. Metéo France stopped publishing an avalanche report on the 6th of June, but we shouldn’t forget the avalanche risk: lots of wind and fresh snow at altitude, so constant vigilance!

 

 

Not much change to report here. The snow is gradually disappearing but over the Cols Bonhomme, Seigne and Ferret there is continuous snow cover. We reiterate our previous advice about what is needed: good physical preparation, ability to analyse the safety of snow bridges and steep sections and adequate kit. We advise you against any TMB variants for the time being.

 

 

 

The Plan Praz and Brevent lifts are now open so walking and climbing activity will increase in the Aiguilles Rouges. Axe and crampons are essential for approaches to climbing routes.   Watch out for cornices and ice above you when you are climbing. The mountain lakes are still under snow. There is now a track in to get up to Lac Blanc from Flegere.  Good shoes/boots advised. We advise you against trying to get to Lac Blanc along the footpath from the Index as it is tricky terrain. Some patience will be needed before summer walking conditions arrive.

 

 

 

Lots going on around here. The snow is gradually melting on the approaches and becoming more weight-bearing so it’s less hard work than last week.  The Migot spur and the Forbes arete are in good condition but lots of snow around the summit.  Lots of people on the classic routes, which are in good condition: Couloir and Arête de la table, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche, Aiguille du Tour. 

 

As far as approaches to the hut are concerned we advise against the summer path because of steep snowy slopes. It’s better to use the path by the moraine which is dry until you reach the usual summer path. Lots of people expected this weekend with the forecast good weather on Sunday.

 

 

No recent feedback on climbing. The hut opens on 20 June, so activity will probably pick up.

 

The Plan Joran lift will be open to alpinists from 22 June every day except Sunday. There will be a ticket machine (bank card only).  7h30 - 8h30 / 13h30-14h30 (ascent and descent) and 17h00 - 18h00 (descent only).

 

 

 

From the top of the ladders there are still a few snow patches so it’s still too early for walkers. Generally the snow is weight-bearing depending on the time of day. The rimayes are beginning to open up but nothing to report at present. It’s too early for the normal route on the Moine (very snowy) and for rock climbing in general. Lots of teams in the Whymper couloir yesterday. The approach can be done on foot but on the way back there may be deep snow depending on the timing. The rimaye is starting to open up but at the moment it’s okay.  Classic mistake: lots of teams start too far right at the bottom. All the belays have now been dug out. The S side of the Col Armand Charlet is OK. Far too much snow to consider the arete du Jardin. The classic traverse of the Grande Rocheuse via the normal route is fine.

 

Attempts at the normal route on the Droites but to no avail. One party reached the summit but not necessarily by the right route!

 

There and back on the Courtes can be done, but we'll have to wait for the weather to settle down before we can do the traverse.

 

No-one on the Pointe Isabelle! Snowshoes could be useful!

 

 

 

Lots of people on the Grandes Jorasses. The Aiguille de l'Eboulement and the Périades look to be in good condition. For climbing, the rock looks dry with glacier approaches well covered in snow. 

The Charpoua opens tomorrow, 15 June. It looks as though the Flammes de Pierre should be possible.

 

 

 

The Envers des Aiguilles opens tomorrow, June 15. To get to the first rungs of the ladders, you'll have to scramble. New rungs are due to be installed shortly to make access easier. Above, the snow has melted well but there are still continuous sections on the large slabs below the refuge and on the final ascent. Ice axes and crampons are required. It is possible to climb Les Nantillons and La Tour Verte. For the rest, we'll wait for the sun to come out to get a good view. 

 

 

 

Same as last week on the South faces of Aiguille du Midi and Lachenal: the climbing is going well in the steep pitches at the bottom. In the final pitches that are less steep, it may be preferable to put on big boots and crampons. Here too, beware of falling ice. 

 

A detailed recap of the conditions on the 3 Monts and the descent of the N face here.

 

The Triangle gullies (Négri, Grisolle, Mazeaud, Chéré) have been tracked. 

 

 

 

A lot of people on the classics (crossing the Marbrées and the Aiguilles d'Entrèves, but beware of the number of teams present).

 

The Tour Ronde routes are still in good condition. Be careful on the "normal route" down (E face) as it heats up quickly and strongly (rock falls from 9-10 am).

 

Good conditions on the Dent du Géant (good route to the Salle à Manger). The Arête de Rochefort (Rochefort ridge) was climbed as far as the Aiguille de Rochefort yesterday (beware of the wind and snow forecast for the near future).

 

A team climbed the Kuffner yesterday, Wednesday 13 June, but there was too much snow (cornices, etc.). We'll have to wait for a spell of good weather for the snow to settle.

 

There’s climbing on the steep routes on the Tacul satellites but beware of falling icicles. Snow on the ledges and sometimes a little ice in the cracks.

 

 

 

Conditions for accessing the Gouter are good and you can still leave from Bellevue or Bionnassay via the Plateau de l'Are (the municipal by-law prohibiting the approach via the Rognes and the rails is still in force). The tramway will reopen tomorrow as far as Bellevue, but work is continuing to reopen the upper section. 

 

The couloir below the Gouter is all snow, and with a good load-bearing capacity the approach is quick. Above, the passage through the ice to get a foothold on the “mauvaise arete" is improving, as the snow has stuck at this point.

 

The Tête Rousse and Gonella refuges are having problems with phone signal. For reservations ring the Gouter.

 

 

 

Guardian report: 15/06/24: "The access path from Miage is clear up to the junction with the Chemin des Contrebandiers (2600m), access possible in hiking boots with small crampons just in case."

 

On the Metrier, top conditions, good refreeze,  rimaye great  and snow not too deep.  Now there are some good steps....

 

Traversée des Dômes excellent conditions, perfect Chaborgne descent.

 

Bionnassay: south face. Very good refreeze, there were a few centimetres of fresh snow accumulated in the gullies, but otherwise it was perfect! Top conditions for skiing.

 

 

 

The Durier refuge is open, but the warden hasn't seen anyone yet. Lots of snow and lots of wind. We recommend climbing via the Métrier or the Conscrits. 

 

 

 

Access remains the same as in previous weeks: climb the left bank of the glacier, cross the widest part of the torrent (to limit the consequences if you enter the water). Then navigate by eye to the refuge. 

 

The last few days have been very busy around the refuge: the Dômes traverse, Métrier and descending to the Conscrits, Tré la Tête, Lée Blanche. The approaches are in compact snow. Good conditions on the above routes. Everything has been done on foot and there are no skiers around. It's raining today at the Conscrits. 

 

As for the footbridge, it will be installed next week (check date with hut). In any case as there is so much snow around you need the right kit. Not advised for walkers at present.

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.