A bit of sunshine, but often a SW wind which complicates refreezing conditions for snow routes and glacier approaches. No heatwave, but it's warm in the high mountains. There was a lot of wind and rain last night below 4,000m. The rock has dried out nicely, but it's still too early for some of the high altitude climbs.

 

 

 

The Dorées traverse is getting a lot of traffic and is in good conditions despite the bad freeze. The Copt couloir is very unstable and should not be climbed or descended.

 

The Col Blanc has a 50m abseil on the Swiss side.

 

The Col du Tour on the Le Tour side has been equipped with fixed ropes.

 

The rimaye on the normal route of the Aiguille du Tour has partly collapsed. Take care when crossing it, but it's still passable (on the left hand side, below the main summit).

 

The poor refreeze isn't helping matters on the Chardonnet (teams have turned back because of the poor refreeze over the last few days). It's the end for the goulotte Escarra. Things have got worse on the Migot spur (dry/mixed lower ramp), with rockfalls on 09/07 at the bottom due to poor freeze conditions & a route finding error by one team.

 

There is still névé after the junction of the paths coming from Charamillon and the Col de Balme, then snow again 100m below the refuge, but fine for good hikers.

 

 

 

Access to the refuge is still via the glacier. Access via the ladders should be fixed next week - we'll keep you posted!

 

Snow routes are OK when it's freezing: glacier du Milieu there and back, Flèche Rousse, col du Tour Noir. The Couturier is no more.

 

The Jardin arete is in good condition but needs to refreeze for the descent. Still too much snow at the top for the Charlet-Straton arete.

 

The time hasnt come for the Tournier spur yet (+ rock falls at the bottom).

 

Otherwise, the rock is dry!

 

 

 

It's pretty much dry to climb up to the refuge via the path and the "Charpoua express" option.

 

The American Direct has been climbed (a little snow on top to make water, otherwise it's dry). The Drus traverse has also been done. Some névés to access the Flammes de Pierre arete and then below the Petit Dru summit: quite a few manoeuvres to remove and put on crampons, which wastes time. The Z is covered in snow. Some of the abseil belays on the S face are still covered in snow - it's "wet"! The Charpoua glacier goes very well.

 

Climbers on the Flammes de Pierre, Contamine (SW ridge) on the Evêque and Sale Athée (Aiguille du Moine).

 

 

 

The balcony paths are being done every day, with a few névés on the way to the Leschaux (bring crampons and ice axe).

 

It's all good for the Moine! The normal route has dried well (a few névés, but crampons are no longer necessary). The rock on the E face (Contamine route, Aureille Feutren) goes well.

 

Generally speaking, the rock is dry!

 

For snow routes, it's the refreeze that's the issue. Generally speaking, the rimayes have opened up and there is often a decent gap. The Whymper Couloir is still a possibility, as it is still well covered in snow. Still no one on the Jardin arete and the Droites traverse. "Traverse of the Courtes in good conditions if it refreezes. Accessible belays on the descent of Chenavier. Enough exposed rock to protect the Aiguille qui Remue traverse. One team made a mistake on the descent (too far to the right) and were taken out by the PGHM, so dont follow their track."

 

Pointe Isabelle still looks good and is doing surprisingly well on the glacier.

 

 

 

Snow routes (Aiguille de l'éboulement and Périades via the Mont Mallet glacier) OK if refreezing.

 

The W face of the Petites Jorasses (Contamine, Anouk) and that of the Aiguille de Leschaux (Boule à facette: "a chunk of snow above the rimaye that will come off in the next few days + wet passages in the lower part because of the névé at the 3rd belay") are generally dry, the access is fine even if you are "up to the knees with a bad refreeze", rimayes OK.

 

On the Grandes Jorasses, the transition between mixed and rock climbing is underway (although it's still a bit early for the Cassin, for example).

 

 

 

The bottom of the access ladders to the Envers refuge has been redone (photo above)! Beware of a few unstable boulders at the foot of the ladders. There is still some snow to access the refuge.

 

The rock is dry except for the Aiguille de Roc / Grépon-Mer de Glace - Aiguille de la République E face sector, which is not recommended at the moment (ice/snow fall) from the ledges/benches when it gets hot. Cross the rimaye on the right (photo below). Easily 10m of fixed ropes missing: thus tricky on the way up, OK with a big abseil on the way down.

 

 

Mixed opinion on access to the Fou: 2 teams did it, one team failed at the rimaye. 

 

The access to the Requin hut has been repaired. The ascent of the Vallée Blanche is still going well, as is the Envers du Plan glacier. The Dent du Requin (Renaudie) is being climbed. On the south-east face of Pierre-Alain, access to Congo Star seems complicated because of a large névé: to be checked.

 

 

 

Few changes.

 

Jetoula is dry but crampons needed for the access couloir.

 

The access to the Salle à Manger is drying out and the unstable terrain is coming out, so be careful when and where you put your feet down. Good conditions on the Rochefort arete (snow ridge, good track, just some ice around the fixed rope, dry rocky section). Lots of people on the Dent du Géant...!

 

Still too much snow to consider the Jorasses traverse with any peace of mind. The normal route was climbed in good conditions (if it refreezes).

 

A good rimaye defends the Gervasutti couloir on the Tour Ronde. On the other side, only the full Freshfield arete is worth considering!

 

Teams on the Kuffner (see "cahier de course" on website, it's better when it's freezing). Stiil snow on the Diable traverse so it's not really on the agenda.

 

The rock is dry and the rimayes go well! The rimaye in the Aiguillettes couloir (Grand Capucin start) is still passable but it can change quickly.

 

 

 

Still good conditions on the Trois Monts (no ice, rimayes OK).

 

The Midi-Plan goes well (N side traverses in snow, abseil sector OK but avoid going too late), it's better with a good refreeze...

 

Traverse of the Aiguilles: quite a lot of snow with all the advantages (water supply and snow that secures the rocks) and disadvantages that go with it. But you have to adapt (and sometimes put crampons back on) and sometimes go around on the Mer de Glace side. It's better when you can stay on the crest (dry). The Spencer couloir is still filled with snow, so you can down climb it or abseil. Glacier des Nantillons OK (no crevasses, no falling rocks or ice to get the abseils on the spur).

 

 

 

Curtains for the Mallory.

 

Lots of teams on the Frendo Spur. Generally good conditions this week but the conditions are deteriorating rapidly at the top (left exit: an ice traverse then a fractured rock couloir): bring steel crampons, two ice axes and long ice screws.

 

The rock has dried well but crampons are often still necessary!

 

Some activity on the Peigne (still some snow). Quite a bit of snow on the descent via the normal route of the Pélerins, which makes it more technical (the névés probably prevent you from getting to the easiest part): mountain feet recommended! The Peigne-Pélerins-Deux Aigles-Plan traverse is also possible (Davaille-Julien has been done, the rimaye to get onto the glacier is currently tight against the rock).

 

Teams on the Cordier pillar and to Charmoz-Grepon! The Blatière looks dry.

 

 

 

 

There are still a few motivated skiers (but better to go up via the Trois Monts). Skis on at the glacier. The corridor route and the N face are still passable, and you can ski down all the way to the Jonction!

 

Most teams are now coming on foot.

 

Wands show the way to the Jonction (from the Plan de l'Aiguille, set off early and allow between 4 and 6 hours depending on your pace to reach the refuge). You can also get there via the historic route and the Gite Balmat.

 

Most teams are going via the plateaux, but the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is still in good condition: a great way to climb Mont Blanc?

 

 

 

Ascent to Tête Rousse:

 

The ascent is now only by the summer path, with no more snow except on the Rognes plateau. 

The crossing of the glacier to reach the refuge is tracked.

The Rognes path is suitable for mountaineers.

 

Ascent to the Goûter:

 

Generally dry except for the crossing of the couloir, (in snow, 1m deep gully in the middle), the cable is in place. A few rock falls observed in the afternoon.

Ice/snow just below the old hut.

 

Dôme du goûter:

 

Watch out for a crevasse at the bottom of the Dome, just about covered but waiting for you. 

 

Bosses ridge:

 

The traverse before the wall of the "mauvaise arete" (where the N face track breaks off) is well crevassed.

Ice on the "mauvaise arete", 2 threads at the bottom, 1 at the top (shallow ice), narrow ridge, difficult crossing.

 

 

 

Plan Glacier: "the access path to the Contrebandiers from the Col du Tricot is done with crampons and ice axe for the less experienced, and microspikes for those in trainers", according to Hubert the caretaker. The secondary access, via the Ours moraine, is passable. The footbridge has not yet been installed, but should be within a week. The Mettrier ridge is dry up to 200m below the summit. If it refreezes, it can still be traversed in its entirety. No info on the arete Tricot, looks like a lot of snow. 

 

Access to the Conscrits hut is via the footbridge, and there is still some snow before you reach the hut. The route across the Dômes de Miage is well tracked, as is the route over the Aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête. A few U-turns due to bad freezing conditions.

 

Durier: plenty of people on the Royal traverse (Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc). The Bionnassay is in good condition, narrow as usual and requires attention and a sure footing.

 

 

 

The Aiguilles Grises /Pape route is good when it's freezing!

 

The Tournette spur can be considered when the weather is good. Plan to climb early to Quintino Sella.

 

The Punta Innominata with descent via the glacier du Brouillard has been done. People are climbing on the Aiguille Croux.

 

Little activity from the  Eccles.

 

Peuterey Integral ("Still some icy snow on the S ridge of the Noire. There's still a lot of snow on the rest of the route, which has its advantages: water, avoids some tricky rock passages, and its disadvantages") and the classic Peuterey ridge (see report on CamptoCamp).

 

 

 

Still snow on the approach to and descent from the Perrons traverse.

 

Access to the Pointe Percée via the normal route is forbidden until further notice for safety reasons (falling ice and rocks). Descent only via the Sallanches chimneys - combe des verts.

 

Maladière / l'Arche de Noé "At the belay at the end of 7a (belay 7) there is a Kestrel's nest with young inside (2m to the left of the belay). This is a protected species, so please avoid the area at all costs, otherwise the parents will attack you and/or leave the nest and the young will die! This will be the case for at least 4 weeks.

 

 

 

The snow line is gradually climbing to around 2500m. 

 

The Jonction from Les Bossons is passable. There is still some snow to climb to the Albert 1er refuge and the Conscrits refuge.

 

The Col du Brévent and Col de Salenton are still snow-covered: mountain feet and appropriate equipment needed. The same goes for Mont Buet.

 

Some snow to reach the Col Cornu from Plan Praz. Lac Cornu is completely covered in snow. However, the Col de la Glière is not recommended (see photos below).

 

 

As far as the Tour du Mont Blanc is concerned, there is still snow on the Col du Bonhomme, but there are good tracks. The variant via the Col des Fours is not recommended. In the Val d'Arpette side, there is a 30-minute walk in the snow on the Champex side and then 2 steep névés to cross on the Trient side: for good, well-equipped hikers only!

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.