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The snow that fell recently was not enough to make any lasting difference to the conditions for the snow and mixed routes, which continue to become even drier

 

Albert 1er Sector : It is becoming difficult to cross both the Cols du Tour and Superior du Tour.  Some parties have managed but others have turned back.  The normal route on the Tête Blanche is now awkward though still possible.  The Aiguille du Tour bergschrund is very wide but possible to get around on the right, with a sufficient level of technical ability.  The normal way up the Petite Fourche remains the only route feasible for novices.

 

Argentière Sector : The activity here is concentrated on the rock routes near the hut.

Charpoua Sector : The routes are dry and the Dru traverse was done recently, the Charpoua glacier still being OK.  


Couvercle Sector :  Everyday there are parties on the Moine and Nonne-Evêque.  Some parties went for the Moine Ridge on the Verte, (no further information yet.)  No known activity on the Grands Montets ridge.


Leschaux Sector :  The rock behind the hut is dry. The glacier approach to the Petites Jorasses is becoming complicated. The Périades, there and back, remains possible but good cramponning and route finding skills needed.

 
Envers des Aiguilles Sector : is popular but with the dry conditions, certain bergschrunds are very open. It is no longer possible to get onto Subtilité Dulférienne, Tout va Mal and California Dream.
Following the retreat of the glacier, 7 bolts have been added at the foot of Marchand de Sable with a new belay some 6m up.  Likewise, a new first pitch has been added to Rivière d'Argent at Tré-la-porte.


Requin Sector : the approach to the hut and to the routes still present no major difficulties.  Parties continue going up and down the "Vallée Blanche".


Torino Sector : The classics of this area remain feasible, though special care is needed, as conditions are very dry. The Rochefort Arete is OK and was done recently as far as the Canzio bivouac.   The Pyramide du Tacul bergschrund is very open and technical. A large stride is needed to cross the bergschrund on the Trident du Tacul. The Aiguilles du Diable traverse is in condition.

 

Cosmiques Sector :  Pointes Lachenal traverse, Laurence Arete and Cosmiques ridge are popular.  The traverse of the 3 Monts was tracked today (17/08).  The Midi-Plan traverse was done shortly after the snow fall but is now no longer in condition.  Nobody seen on the Triangle du Tacul, (too dry). Fragile snow bridges have been reported on the traverse of the Vallée Blanche.  


Conscrits Sector :  The Central Dôme, there and back, via the Col des Dômes and the East Dome E remain possible.  The traverse from the Bérangère is bare ice and subject to stone fall.  Some parties went towards the Durier. The traverse of the Bionnassay is in good condition generally .